mallory unilite questions, and so it begins.... Options

[Aaron Cox]

hey guys,

i have a 2.0 euro piston'd, weber 44'd engine with a Moderate - big cam.
so much so that stock 44's work very well (dead on jetting - off the shelf) IIRC i was told that the advance from my 050 dizzy wasnt optimum for my cam. my engine wil cruise all day long like stock but is a Beast 2500 to 6000. but mildly hesitate when it comes off idle circuit to mains
when you jump on it. (explained to me that its the difference in vacuum when the powerband comes on, kinda fakes out the webers)

im contemplating a mallory dizzy....
what should the static and full advance timing be set to? (mallory is adjustable)
also, the unilite optical pickup w/o vac advance - will it still generate a useable tach signal?

thanks dudes,
Aaron

[SLITS]

It is big.  I had to bang out the tin to the left.  I'm hoping that the cooling flap still moves freely.  It was very close.

Slits-How do you re-index it as this is a vac adv unit??

Place the engine at TDC #1. Remove the dizzy. I can't remember the size bolt that you can "screw" into the center of the dizzy drive gear, but screw it in (or any other way you can pull the dizzy drive gear up) and rotate it counterclockwise. Look at the relation of the larger and smaller part of the circle on the dizzy drive gear (drive socket cuts the circle) and get it into a postion that the dizzy vac advance will clear what you need to and reseat the dizzy drive gear. Hopefully, if there are shims on the bottom of the gear they won't fall off into the case.

Alternatively - if the Mallory is like the stock dizzy, there is no stop on the rotation (except for the vac advance hitting shit) - you can turn it 360 degrees. If you set the engine at TDC #1 as before, and mark the dizzy cap pole that is #1 and the position the rotor is pointing to on the case of the motor Then just rotate the dizzy (counter clockwise) until the vac is in the position you want (you can even remove the vac advance if you have to - and them put it back on after you establish the realtionship). The pole that is nearest the mark you made on the case is the new #1 now. Unplug the wires from the dizzy cap and plug #1 lead into it. Follow the firing order with the rest in a clockwise rotation. This method saves pulling the dizzy gear.

Hope this helps. I can visualize it and hope it translates.

PS: Make sure those cooling flaps rotate!!!!! Or at least stick them in the open position. Remember, the dizzy isn't a brain and doesn't care where #1 is located as long as the rest of the leads follow in firing sequence. The marks that the factory put on the dizzy, etc are for reference only