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mikesjunk |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 71 Joined: 29-November 15 From: goddard, KS Member No.: 19,423 Region Association: None ![]() |
EDITED to put smaller pictures below.
Ok, so my sister has a 1971 Porsche 914 that somehow I've been asked to get running again. It's had a few too many people under the hood over the years so there's quite a list of projects to do. So first question is there a good manual that would be recommended for these so I might not have to ask question like will be below. Haynes, Chilton, ?? One of the first project is new fuel line front to back as they are pretty rotted. Next project is to verify the wiring as there's been a lot of playing around with the double relay. Since I'm doing fuel lines the tank is out. Under the tank was a vacuum type line that didn't seem to have a home. Any suggestions where this was supposed to go. Come through the floor loops around and ends up by steering shaft. Next question is what are the correct names two sensors? They are part of the double relay wiring and I'm tracing wires. Blue one, Brown one. And then for now on this thread. What is this? |
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Dave_Darling |
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914 Idiot ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 15,196 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
Haynes for the manual. It's not very good, but there isn't really anything better--except this forum!! Pelican has some pretty good Tech Articles, and there are other good sites like Jeff Bowlsby's "914 Tech" pages and such. But for a paper manual, Haynes is it. It has about 85% of the information from the $300+ factory manuals. As in, words and pictures lifted directly from the factory manuals.
Sounds like you have a 1.8 liter engine (and FI system) from a 74 or 75 transplanted into that 71. (Double-check the VIN; if it starts with 471 it is a 71, if it starts with 475 it's a 75.) The year will matter for things like the wiring. Short descriptions of the AAR and CSV: - The AAR allows some air that has been measured by the air-flow meter to bypass the throttle valve. It raises the idle RPM when the engine is cold. It should have an electrical plug that powers a little heating element inside it, so that after 5-10 minutes of the engine running the valve is closed. When the valve is cold, it should allow air to go through it; when the valve is warm it should not. - The CSV adds an extra spray of fuel into the intake manifold while the starter is cranking, if the engine is cold enough. It gets its power from the starter circuit, and is grounded through a switch that is closed when below 40F (or maybe 32F). This is to help a very cold engine to light off and start running. Once the starter is no longer cranking, the CSV will no longer spray fuel. L-jet hates vacuum leaks; triple-check everything downstream of the air flow meter for leaks. Note that the crankcase gets plumbed into the intake, so the oil filler needs to make a good seal as well! --DD |
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