Hey suby conversion guys |
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Hey suby conversion guys |
mepstein |
May 22 2016, 07:30 PM
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#1
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,315 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Help me find a good thread for removing the center diff and adding in the locking piece to convert to 2 wheel drive. Thanks.
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DBCooper |
May 23 2016, 10:41 AM
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#2
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14's in the 13's with ATTITUDE Group: Members Posts: 3,079 Joined: 25-August 04 From: Dazed and Confused Member No.: 2,618 Region Association: Northern California |
That link mentioned, http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...20712&st=20, has step-by-step instructions, but once you get it started it’s pretty straightforward. Follow the steps there and dismantle until you see this:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2388-1380505693_thumb.jpg) That’s where the sleeve goes and those two gears you can see just outside that big nut on the bottom shaft are the two it will lock. Remove that big nut and BE CAREFUL about order, orientation and placement of the washers etc. Once they’re off the sleeve is placed on, and in this photo you can see it in place and those two gears locked: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2388-1380506531_thumb.jpg) See that yellow paint mark? You can use it for orientation and compare both photos to see the differences, the sleeve before and after. Re-install those washers and bearings and torque the shit out of it (I don’t remember the value, look it up, but you’ll be leaning into it). Then put the rear cover on and you’re done. It’s not a very complicated process, and once you start disassembling things it’s pretty easy to see how it works. |
Chris H. |
May 23 2016, 01:46 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 4,032 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Chicago 'burbs Member No.: 73 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Remove that big nut and BE CAREFUL about order, orientation and placement of the washers etc. ^^^^ THIS Re-install those washers and bearings and torque the shit out of it (I don’t remember the value, look it up, but you’ll be leaning into it). and ^^^^^ THIS is what I was talking about Mark. DO NOT permanently remove any of the washers at the end of the stack where the nut goes no matter what the directions you may find on the internet might say. You use everything except (I think) one funny looking squiggly washer that comes out to fit the sleeve on. The round smooth washers ALL go back on or the nut won't get tight enough. See my build thread for the problem/solution on that. There may be a separate thread on it as well. Paul is exactly right with everything else he said too. And the torque value is like....160 lbs or something but it's different for every year. Mine is an 06. Sounds easy but it's not since the stubs will spin when you try to tighten it. Mine is an "open diff" which made it worse. |
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