Tie-rod replacement question |
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Tie-rod replacement question |
SKL1 |
May 30 2016, 04:50 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,607 Joined: 19-February 11 From: north Scottsdale Member No.: 12,732 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Replacing tie-rods after getting the new ones discussed here elsewhere.
Working on the first one on driver's side- when turning the castellated nut on top the whole thing turns. Thought about trying to put some pressure on the shaft with vise grips but the shaft and nut still turn as a unit... Any ideas? I'm stuck before I've almost gotten started! |
914_teener |
Jun 1 2016, 04:40 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,205 Joined: 31-August 08 From: So. Cal Member No.: 9,489 Region Association: Southern California |
Ok...it's the ADD thread of TTR.
I think the OP's question was addressed. I'll take a stab at the other questions ect....sorry if this confuses everyone more. Nice toe-plate BTW. I would make sure that the ball joint is seated into the strut arm if you are going to use the jam or nylock nut. Possible method. Use the old castle nut to force it down and or to double check...measure the distance from the bottom of the tie rod end to the top of the thread less the thickness of the strut arm. This will assure you that it is seated. The original torque setting for that type of nut is irrelevant since the setting was speced for the other nut. Make it tight seated and lock tite it for good measure and you should be fine. Check it every once and awhile. Jim......good luck with the install. Let me know if you need any help. I think the OP was going to replace his stock tie rods with stock replacements...or so I thought. Rob |
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