Replacing tie-rods after getting the new ones discussed here elsewhere.

Working on the first one on driver's side- when turning the castellated nut on top the whole thing turns. Thought about trying to put some pressure on the shaft with vise grips but the shaft and nut still turn as a unit...

Any ideas? I'm stuck before I've almost gotten started!Click to view attachment

An air gun would spin the nut right off. Since you are replacing the tie rod you could use a cutoff tool or hacksaw to remove the nut by making a couple of cuts so it can be split with a chisel. Lacking those tools try putting a jack under the tie rod to force the tie rod end taper up into the steering arm and see if the nut turns.

I don't see signs of any penetrant.

Overnight application of PB Blaster....
Keep posting your progress; several of us are getting ready to do this. Any 1st hand tips will be appreciatef

Penetrating oil on the driver's side- pass nut came off easily. Put on separator tool and turned it pretty damned tight and it hasn't popped off yet.

Will keep trying. As per usual, it is taking a lot longer than I thought...

I'm sure Murphy is alive and well- he usually is.Click to view attachment

That tool is doing nothing. Flip it around so it's trying to push the threaded stud out of the arm.

yup not the right tool.

On the driver's side, agree to soak it with PB Blaster or Kroil, don't waste your time with WD-40 or Liquid Wrench. Try putting heat to also, and don't worry about melting the boot since you are replacing it.

In case like yours I've had limited luck putting a jack under the ball joint to force it tighter, have had great luck cutting them off with a cutoff wheel on a grinder. Also in some cases I've been able to grab the shaft under the boot with vice grips and prevent the shaft from turning while getting the top nut off.

I used an impact wrench to spin the nut off and an $8 splitter from Harbor Freight. Worked great.

Put the nut on flush with the threads, block the arm tight close to the balljoint, spray it good, and strike the nut medium hard with a hammer. Repeat. Take your time, be patient.

It will just about fall out using an pneumatic air chisel with a pointed bit working the top of the stud.

I wuz thinkin' that looked mighty peculiar...
If you're not trying to save the end, you could take some vice grips and grab the upper part of the stud and use your open end to get it started...

Thanks for the tips- that embarassing I had the tool upside down

Oh well, after doing this stuff for 40+ years you can still learn something!!

Will play with both sides tomorrow!

I am in the camp of getting the cut off wheel and carefully grinding off the end of the tie rod stud. I then soaked it overnight with PB Blaster and with a ball joint seperator popped out the stud end of the ties rod. I really think it is how badly rusted the tie rod end is to the strut arm end. Looks like you have already done the ball joint.

One other thing, while you are soaking the PB Blaster on the tie rod ends...soak the other ends that go into the rack end so that they will spin out easily.

This is one of those jobs that you will probably only do once...hopefully. So take your time.

This is becoming quite the project... got the first one off but couldn't back the bolt out of the inner part so unscrewed it from the rack. I'm not putting the turbo tie rods on this car but rather the OEM type so was hoping not to remove the fitting from the rack itself.
The bolt seems to be stripped as it turns but obviously bent the U shaped fitting as noted in the picture. And it won't back out!
Looks like a trip to Lowes to get a Dremel or hacksaw and some new 10mm bolts for the new tie-rod... Click to view attachment

you mentioned sir you are installing turbo tie rod, i dont think you need that whole part from u-joint to the other end of the tie rod. turbo
tie rod is a complete from tie rod to other end to replace ujoint to single or with middle bolt screwed to the inner steering.

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ooops mis read, you are installing oem part, sir why not just install turbo tie rod? i'm sure several members recommend turbo tie rod.

I got a turbo kit for my '71 but think I'll go ahead and put it on the '73 and not screw with those inner parts!

If anyone needs new 2 OEM style tie rods, I'll give 'em a good deal!

The bolt has a slight tapper where it's wider at the bottom generating friction to "seat" it tightly. Rust on the exposed bolt has even greater friction when it "freezes" to the old castle nut. PB Blaster overnight worked well.

Click to view attachment

I have been searching for a thread that describes torque specs for the newer apparently 'one-use' [non-castle/cottor pin] for replacement turbo tie rod nut.

Where's that information/thread?

I put mine in the round plastic container.....40 gallon type container.

Here's the newer "one use" nut that replaces the castle nut. I can not find a source for the correct torque spec for this item and no directions came with the kit. Who knows where to find the correct torque spec?

Click to view attachment

You know......after a tiny bit of thought...my turbo kit used a castlated nut and cotter pin. I bought the kit almost more than a year ago from PMB. Couple of things crossed my mind using a jam or nylock nut. First is that you can't get a reliable torque setting using a nut like that and referencing a factory value. The other is that while the nut won't have a tendency to back off and get loose....I.d sleep better knowing there is a cotter pin there and or at least checking them from time to time if I was aggressively driving the car a lot.

Just saying.

HELP. I can NOT find any torque numbers/threads for this one time ball joint nut. A little bit of nail polish over the thread/nut will prove up no moment once fully torqued.

Click to view attachment

HELP. I can NOT find any torque numbers/threads for this one time ball joint nut. I have seen 33-37 foot pounds ... but that seemed to be for older style castle nut. A little bit of nail polish over the thread/nut will prove up no moment once fully torqued.

Click to view attachment

I believe I used about 35 ft-lbs when I did mine....that lock nut is a similar size to the old nut. I'd personally rather have the cotter pin/nut setup over the lock nut.

Just finished putting the turbo kit on- just like the Pelican DIY said, getting those damned rubber bellows on each end was the toughest part, especially on the side with the brake MC in the way.
Finally got it done, and my tow isn't even that far off!

Click to view attachment

Got my TTRs today from Importec; now to get the PB blaster out...

Ok...it's the ADD thread of TTR.

I think the OP's question was addressed.

I'll take a stab at the other questions ect....sorry if this confuses everyone more.

Nice toe-plate BTW.

I would make sure that the ball joint is seated into the strut arm if you are going to use the jam or nylock nut.

Possible method. Use the old castle nut to force it down and or to double check...measure the distance from the bottom of the tie rod end to the top of the thread less the thickness of the strut arm. This will assure you that it is seated.

The original torque setting for that type of nut is irrelevant since the setting was speced for the other nut.

Make it tight seated and lock tite it for good measure and you should be fine. Check it every once and awhile.

Jim......good luck with the install. Let me know if you need any help.

I think the OP was going to replace his stock tie rods with stock replacements...or so I thought.

Rob