Exhaust manifold studs?, Now what |
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Exhaust manifold studs?, Now what |
catsltd |
Jun 5 2016, 03:13 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 181 Joined: 7-June 15 From: Calgary Alberta Member No.: 18,814 Region Association: None |
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dlee6204 |
Jun 9 2016, 12:06 PM
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#2
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Howdy Group: Members Posts: 2,162 Joined: 30-April 06 From: Burnsville, NC Member No.: 5,956 |
I'm not aware of copper nut issues - I've always been told to use those. I would definitely consider using the copper anti-seize paste as well. In terms of the copper gasket (ring as you call it): a small dental pick carefully applied should be able to get that out of there. The approach I had the best success with in terms of putting the gasket on was to use that copper spray gasket and use that almost as a glue -- it keeps the gasket in place on the head as you put the HE in position. I've heard others say using superglue is fine as well, as the heat from the engine will simply burn it off. Putting it on the HE while you lift it up into place is way too hit and miss for me. I tried that before and found I had one HE that sealed well and another that did not. Are you going to anneal the gasket? Have you considered filing down the HE's to make sure they're uniform? I have a large file,and have already filed the heat exchanger( 1 of them) flat. I just read about heating the copper gaskets,so I will do that as well,but did not do it on the drivers side,and it leaks so not impressed. I am doing the clutch so I will pull both heat exchangers and replace copper o rings after I have anneal them.3 new studs,all new copper nuts(Thanks),and will file flat. Dont want to do this again,as I am sure Ill break a stud. Thanks for your help. Grant A lot of folks do not know that to soften copper or silver you heat to dull red and immediately quench in cool water. Opposite of steel. If you cool slowly you are following the process for hardening! Quenching copper is not necessary. It can be annealed both ways, quenching or air cooled.. |
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