Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. |
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Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup., Hot Summer; Hot, Overheating V-8 Radiator Setup. |
BRAVE_HELIOS |
Jul 26 2016, 08:35 PM
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#1
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Can anyone divulge details on the Renegade Hybrid radiator system such as dimensions, Inlet and outlet sizes and rad type (number of rows, if cross flow etc...). Is it even allowed ;-)?
This hot summer has proven that my system cannot handle it. I have some good components such as a 2000 cfm, 9 blade fan out of a Ford Taurus. The remote mechanical water pump is a standard R.H. unit. I also have a Griffin radiator, model 125241-H... no radiator cap (inlet=1.5" and outlet=1.75"). https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-25241-x The dimensions are 16"x 27.5" x 3". it is a 2 row unit. Although the inlet/outlet sizes are different, the hoses carrying coolant from front to rear are all the same size at 1.25 inch diameter. The Tech rep at Griffin seems to think that the rad should be fine but I ain't no 4 core unit either. The other part of this is the car has a Chalon kit installed. I question whether the bumper opening for rad air is sufficiently sized. The opening is ducted to the bulkhead opening. The inner fender walls are fully open to allow the air to exit. From all that I've read; the viable solutions is to either go with a RH rad setup (or as close to as possible) and/or go with an electric water pump. I think I have some (most) of what RH would sell me as there rad kit. The only difference I can see is the rad size/type and the bumper opening size. Pictures of my current setup can be found here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...132273&hl=# I feel like I am close to getting this figured out. Just a bit more tinkering is needed. Thanks! |
Mike Bellis |
Jul 26 2016, 09:21 PM
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#2
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Resident Electrician Group: Members Posts: 8,345 Joined: 22-June 09 From: Midlothian TX Member No.: 10,496 Region Association: None |
Your radiator should be big enough. Mechanical pump? Like a stock chevy pump? Might be a flow problem. The outlet holes should be double the inlet hole for best low pressure behind the radiator.
You can only have a few problems... Poor water flow Air pocket in the system (very common) Poor air flow through the radiator That's it. My AFCO radiator was the same size when I ran a V8. The key was to ensure there was no possible path of air around the radiator. None. I would also use a vacuum pump through a holding tank to pull a vac on the system at the high point. At the low point I would have a tank of water with a ball valve closed. Once full vacuum was pulled, I would open the ball valve to suck in water. close the valve and do it again and again until no air came through the holding tank. I now run a Celica GTS radiator and it fits way better and has absolutely ZERO possible air flow around it. Engine never, ever gets above about 180F. Even if I leave it idling on a hot summer day. |
BRAVE_HELIOS |
Jul 26 2016, 09:51 PM
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#3
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Interesting. What year GTS? Did you pick it up at a dismantler? How much?
I Don't think I have any air pockets but I am not 100% sure. If I can rig something up like you describe, I will try it. I forgot to add... I recently purchased a couple of 12 inch AC condenser fans off of a 90's Toyota 4Runner. So far I attached them to the inner fender walls to help exhaust the hot air from the radiator and main fan. No difference really. Any other suggestions to place the fan(s)... perhaps as a pusher on the front side of the rad or as a puller on the back side of the bumper grill opening? How about the engine bay area? Your radiator should be big enough. Mechanical pump? Like a stock chevy pump? Might be a flow problem. The outlet holes should be double the inlet hole for best low pressure behind the radiator. You can only have a few problems... Poor water flow Air pocket in the system (very common) Poor air flow through the radiator That's it. My AFCO radiator was the same size when I ran a V8. The key was to ensure there was no possible path of air around the radiator. None. I would also use a vacuum pump through a holding tank to pull a vac on the system at the high point. At the low point I would have a tank of water with a ball valve closed. Once full vacuum was pulled, I would open the ball valve to suck in water. close the valve and do it again and again until no air came through the holding tank. I now run a Celica GTS radiator and it fits way better and has absolutely ZERO possible air flow around it. Engine never, ever gets above about 180F. Even if I leave it idling on a hot summer day. |
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