Oil filter bulge, Jiffy Pop NEW concern, 1 cyl intermittently pre-detonates help! Michigan Build, 2016 Build-Off Options

[Garland]

This engine is for my Michigan Build, 2016 Build-Off Challenge. Needed to come to the "Garage" for some help.

Fresh rebuilt on start up, my first oil filter inflated, then leaked at the seal. Second try, filter massive leak blew the seal out. I have a flow probem. Looking for help. I must be building pressure, just won't leave the filter.

[Garland]

Here's is the track I was following, and it didn't end well. Sound familial?

"Weber DCNF experiences ?
Postby Stufenheck » Mon Feb 17, 2003 8:57 pm
If you decide to use DCNF's, the change that makes the most inprovement is the needle valves from Gene Berg, I only wish I had done that right of the back I would have been done by now.

Back in 1999 when I taught it would be neat idea to install a 2L 914 engine in my Notchback, after scrapping a 74 that was damaged beyond repair, kept the engine and wheels. I had intially taught of using the F/I set up that was in the 914.

A year later I found the short intakes for the 40 DCNF that bolted up to the 914 engine in England. So with limited choices I went with the 40 DCNF's. I had purchased the DCNF's in 1999 for $40 at a swap meet for possible use on a type 3 motor.

3 years and $600+ in carburator parts and linkage later, I've been driving a 1965 Notchback with 2L engine for the past 2 year. It has been a challenge to figure these carbs out.

Dan Zink told me about the STF and it has been helpful in understanding the endevour we each take on when doing this type of engine conversion.

I have experience the fuel boiling/perculating in the bowl when the car stops even in the winter. Sounds like an old coffee maker.

To try and combat this problem I have contacted a vendor that I saw in ad in HVW who makes phenolic spaces for carbs. I'm waiting for a reply. He may not even get back to me due to limited quantity only asked him for two sets. I have a 1/2" thick piece of Phenolic in the garage, I may try to make my own.

Another idea is to get cold air to the carbs. I have some 4" high temperature duct hose that I got from a friend at work. The idea is to get cold air from the interior and plumb the hose from the rear shelf to the top of the engine cover near the carburetors.

So I battle on with my conversion making small improvements along the way.




But this idea I like, have to work on that, a bit later.

"He said that he had a pair setup with no floats, and no float valve.
He said that the float bowls would fill up and overflow into a capture bowl of some sort and be recycled back to the tank.
With that setup there was no float to get stuck or affected by cornering or braking G-force."

[Mark Henry]

But this idea I like, have to work on that, a bit later.

"He said that he had a pair setup with no floats, and no float valve.
He said that the float bowls would fill up and overflow into a capture bowl of some sort and be recycled back to the tank.
With that setup there was no float to get stuck or affected by cornering or braking G-force."

I don't know how you would do this, the top of the carb isn't fully sealed and would overflow the top. It can't be sealed as it requires a vent.

Thing is to me is you could trade or sell the DCNF's on the samba easy and get a set of mint italian IDF's. Then you won't have all the fuching around to do.

DCNF's sell easy, some series are sought after by the Ferrari guys, as they need 6 of them in the same series and the bug guy bought up all the spares. DCNF carbs have many different series, as the tooling wore weber would start a different series. Type one guys also search out these carbs.

Once you modify, drill holes, baffles, etc the carbs can quickly become worthless.

Good luck (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)