Need door lock cylinders Options

[vin man]

The key that I have for my 914 does not work in the door locks. Where should I get replacement door lock/ key set? This is what I need:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/htsmall.automotion.com-11380-1485034894.1.jpg)

If I search the internet, I find a single lock for over $120 here: Door Lock

Is there a more affordable alternative?

[Rob-O]

Before you go buying a set of lock cylinders, I'd make sure that you actually need them. Many times it's assumed that the locks are different because the key won't turn the lock cylinder. When in actuality the problem is that the key is trying to turn a lock that is at least 40 years old. Do yourself a favor, pull the door handle, Pull the lock cylinder. Clean the and relate the thing (keep the key in it or the wafers and springs will do a vanishing act by departing the lock cylinder). Once it's all back together, if, when the key is inserted into the lock cylinder, all the wafers are flush with he outside of the lock cylinder, then the key is correct for that lock.

If not, there are tons of people on here that can send you some wafers. I believe there were only 5 different sized wafers. They are actually marked 0 to 4 if I remember correctly. Some don't have a marking on them at all, and I think those are just '0' wafers (some marked '0', some not). It's pretty easy to put the key in the lock and see which wafer is standing proud of the lock cylinder. Change that wafer out with different numbered wafers until the wafer sits flush.

Or...since you know the key works in the ignition, pull the ignition cylinder out (a little bit of work but not terrible). You can clean that lock cylinder up and then pull the wafers one by one, noting their position in the cylinder (again, careful or you'll lose the little springs that push the wafer out when the key isn't in the lock cylinder). Once you know the position and number of the wafers in the ignition, pull your door lock cylinders (and might as well do the rear trunk, glovebox and front trunk locks as well) and position the wafers to match the ignition.

Most people don't do the glovebox, front trunk and rear trunk locks because of time. Pulling the glovebox lock is probably the biggest time suck.

If you just do the ignition and door locks you're probably looking at two hours to disassemble, clean, lube, reassemble. That's assuming you have the wafers you need on hand.

Two other things. First, if the lock is turning in the door but not opening the door you have other issues. Second, the picture you posted isn't actually for a 914. It's close, but the end piece on a 914 looks different.

[vin man]

Before you go buying a set of lock cylinders, I'd make sure that you actually need them. Many times it's assumed that the locks are different because the key won't turn the lock cylinder. When in actuality the problem is that the key is trying to turn a lock that is at least 40 years old. Do yourself a favor, pull the door handle, Pull the lock cylinder. Clean the and relate the thing (keep the key in it or the wafers and springs will do a vanishing act by departing the lock cylinder). Once it's all back together, if, when the key is inserted into the lock cylinder, all the wafers are flush with he outside of the lock cylinder, then the key is correct for that lock.

If not, there are tons of people on here that can send you some wafers. I believe there were only 5 different sized wafers. They are actually marked 0 to 4 if I remember correctly. Some don't have a marking on them at all, and I think those are just '0' wafers (some marked '0', some not). It's pretty easy to put the key in the lock and see which wafer is standing proud of the lock cylinder. Change that wafer out with different numbered wafers until the wafer sits flush.

Or...since you know the key works in the ignition, pull the ignition cylinder out (a little bit of work but not terrible). You can clean that lock cylinder up and then pull the wafers one by one, noting their position in the cylinder (again, careful or you'll lose the little springs that push the wafer out when the key isn't in the lock cylinder). Once you know the position and number of the wafers in the ignition, pull your door lock cylinders (and might as well do the rear trunk, glovebox and front trunk locks as well) and position the wafers to match the ignition.

Most people don't do the glovebox, front trunk and rear trunk locks because of time. Pulling the glovebox lock is probably the biggest time suck.

If you just do the ignition and door locks you're probably looking at two hours to disassemble, clean, lube, reassemble. That's assuming you have the wafers you need on hand.

Two other things. First, if the lock is turning in the door but not opening the door you have other issues. Second, the picture you posted isn't actually for a 914. It's close, but the end piece on a 914 looks different.

Thanks. I will definitely try and salvage the lock cylinders I have.
I have a second 914 that also doesn't have working door locks. So, between the 4 busted cylinders I have now, I should be able to get at least 2 working ones. I'm going to buy the ones from Steven as well as a backup. If I wind up not needing them, I'll put them back up for sale for someone else that can use them.

Ultimately, I would love to have 1 key that works all the door locks and ignition cylinder for both cars!

Is the ignition lock cylinder also one that can be pulled and rekeyed using the process in the other post?