Money and motor options, What is a realistic budget and parts list Options

[thelogo]

1st off the engine im going for in no way needs to
Be optimised for performance (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)


What is the best combo for just cool reliable running
In socal heat .



Im trying to stay clear of d jet (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif)

So carbs or i like cb performance f.i kit but know little actually about it .



What

Crank
Pistons
Rods
Cam
Cyclinder s
Fuel delivery

Etc should i be putting together and what kinda budget windfall
Should i be prepared for .

I know its a sickness but cant be that expensive?

I will use a machine shop to build the motor
That have extensive experience with type 4
So i know thats gonna cost me major $

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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)



Talk to me about proven engine combinatios (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[thelogo]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)


Sound advice d.d

Im happy with a 1.7

Not happy with djet .

[Mueller]

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Sound advice d.d

Im happy with a 1.7

Not happy with djet .

Could be operator error (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Any fuel system be it a single carb or even a $5,000 Motec system can give you fits if not in tip top shape and if you don't know how to work on it, you could spend $10K on a new motor with modern EFI or dual carbs and be miserable if not tuned correctly or you miss a simple vacuum line.

I'd go thru all the basic troubleshooting of the FI and ignition 1st as well as a full tune up.

[thelogo]

[quote name='Mueller' date='Mar 14 2017, 03:59 PM' post='2464197']
[quote name='thelogo' post='2464191' date='Mar 14 2017, 03:41 PM']
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)


Sound advice d.d

Im happy with a 1.7

Not happy with djet .
[/quote]


Could be operator error (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Any fuel system be it a single carb















How do you fuck up a single carb (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

[Mike D.]

How do you fuck up a single carb (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

You don't, it fucks you up. They are POS. And lose the mechanic that won't work on your car.

Take it to Leamon in Tajunga. PM him, he's HeelToe914

[thelogo]

How do you fuck up a single carb (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

You don't, it fucks you up. They are POS. And lose the mechanic that won't work on your car.

Take it to Leamon in Tajunga. PM him, he's HeelToe914

Leamon is the coolest guy ever
And yeh im sure he could help
And the guy always seem to find the great cars too


And my mechanic does a great job on the car
But he told me . Way back when i got the car

That the car was running well and he didnt really
Touch the injection and every thing seems fine

He recommended that as long as its all good to
Run the djet

And if it becomes a issue install webers

[struckn]

[quote name='thelogo' date='Mar 14 2017, 08:00 PM' post='2464289']
[quote name='Mike D.' post='2464240' date='Mar 14 2017, 06:03 PM']
[quote name='thelogo' post='2464233' date='Mar 14 2017, 05:42 PM']

How do you fuck up a single carb (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)
[/quote]

You don't, it fucks you up. They are POS. And lose the mechanic that won't work on your car.




Alright I have to respond to the question above. Here again is my Video of my Single Weber 1.8 with the correct Cam and attention to the carb floats adjustments done by Tony at Translog GT to make it run right.


https://youtu.be/H4t0M2wrhu8

Doug

[Mueller]

[quote name='struckn' date='Mar 16 2017, 12:27 PM' post='2464773']
[quote name='thelogo' date='Mar 14 2017, 08:00 PM' post='2464289']
[quote name='Mike D.' post='2464240' date='Mar 14 2017, 06:03 PM']
[quote name='thelogo' post='2464233' date='Mar 14 2017, 05:42 PM']

How do you fuck up a single carb (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)
[/quote]

You don't, it fucks you up. They are POS. And lose the mechanic that won't work on your car.

Alright I have to respond to the question above. Here again is my Video of my Single Weber 1.8 with the correct Cam and attention to the carb floats adjustments done by Tony at Translog GT to make it run right.


https://youtu.be/H4t0M2wrhu8

Doug
[/quote]

It has been proven they "work" but why not go the extra step for just few hundred dollars more to go twin carb which is proven to work better?

If the OP just wants a running car and doesn't mind a compromise the single carb can "work".

Will he be happy six month later wondering if it would be improved upon? Maybe, maybe not.


thelogo,

The problem that arises from adapting fuel injection from other model vehicles is the tuning. The volumetric efficiency and spark timing curves will be different. Some you can modify easily and others you won't be able to change anything so you run the risk of too lean or too rich as well as too far advanced in timing.

Adapting FI from another vehicle is one of those things that if you have to ask if it can be done, it is not a job for you or for your mechanic unless you have deep pockets.

LJet can be had for free to a few hundred dollars. I got mine for free, I just had to pay shipping.

However just like DJet, if you are not 100% familiar with it and not everything is in tip top shape it will give you fits.

Very simple, plenty of online resources that describe how it operates and what is related to what on the system. (same goes for Djet)

[914sgofast2]

The answer to building a good engine with the Djet system is to be methodical and not take shortcuts when you are rebuilding/testing the various Djet components. I just finished rebuilding the 1.7 in my son's early 1970 model year 914. It has the least amount of factory smog control compromises of any 914; they did not even have a factory PCV valve or orifice - they just had the vent pipe on the oil filler chimney connected with a hose to the side of the oil bath air cleaner housing. Later cars had it plumbed into the intake plenum with a PCV valve/orifice in the oil filler housing.

Anyway, if you want a good performing Djet, I would recommend starting with the system components from an early 1970 model year 914 since they have the least amount of factory smog modifications/settings made to the distributor and fuel injection tuning in the ECU.

Use a distributor, ECU and MPS suitable designed for use on a 1970 model year 914. There are charts of the part numbers to use for this model year at Bowlby's site or there has links to them at his website.

In making the Djet work properly on my son's car, I did the following: (a) rebuilt the Djet wiring harness myself (or you can buy one from Bowlsby); (b) replaced all 4 fuel injectors with NEW black ones from Standard I got from Parts Geek (found that using rebuilt Bosch yellow ones was a waste of money - they always ended up leaking from the housing); © cleaned the distributor completely, including the advance weights and the fuel injection trigger point unit. Most important, test the vacuum advance & retard unit for leaks. If the distributor vacuum unit leaks, buy a new one.

It is also critical to test the auxiliary air regulator (AAR) valve that adjusts/controls the cold and hot engine idle. (The test is described on Bowlsby's site) If the AAR is not shutting off when hot, it will drive you crazy searching for mysterious vacuum leaks because it does not close entirely when the engine warms up. The symptom of a bad AAR is a hot engine that will not idle down low enough and will not hold an even idle speed. It acts just like it has a huge vacuum leak, because that is what it is. The AAR is not shutting off the flow of air into the intake plenum, which results in an overly lean mixture when hot. This causes the engine idle to hunt, confusing the MPS and ECU and making it impossible to set the idle on a hot engine to below 1800 RPM or so. We ended up simply removing the AAR and plugging the inlet pipe in the intake plenum because we could not find a good used AAR and new ones are unobtanium. This means we no longer have a cold engine fast idle on initial start up, but the engine's hot idle can now be adjusted to the correct RPM when warmed up. I spent weeks chasing down this problem looking for phantom vacuum leaks because it idled perfectly when cold, but once the engine got hot the engine idle hunted all over the place and would not settle down.

Make sure the MPS unit will hold vacuum for at least 15 minutes without losing any vacuum. If it won't, you need to replace it. An engine with a leaking MPS will never run properly since the Djet is a vacuum based fuel injection system.

There are also the standard precautions to be observed. Set the timing correctly for the full advance around 3500 RPM. Make sure the valves are correctly adjusted.

Last, but not least, we used a set of the factory "Euro" high compression pistons in the 1.7 and carefully set the deck height of the pistons when we rebuilt the engine so the compression ratio wasn't too high.

You should end up with an engine likes to rev because it has a shorter stroke than a 2 liter and due to the absence of the smog settings/compromises to fuel ratios and distributor timing the later fuel injected engines had to endure. It also avoids the cylinder heads that are prone to cracking and dropping valve seats as found on the 2 liter engines. The reason Porsche kept increasing engine sizes in the 914 and redoing the heads was to make up for the power loses the later year engines suffered when trying to meet the increasingly strict emissions requirements in the 1971 to 1975 era. In those days, each year the engines had to run cleaner and cleaner and the emissions technology knowledge was just developing step by step. Like I said, our early 1970 (with a December 1969 build date) did not even have a PCV system like the later ones did.

You should be able to build one of these 1.7s in an "early" state of tune for far less than $5,000. We did. No one sees any value in Djet parts for the 1.7 engines, especially the early ones. Take advantage of it now before the prices go up.