Body work, to bondo or not to bondo~ |
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Body work, to bondo or not to bondo~ |
mercdev |
Oct 25 2004, 10:33 PM
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#1
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Read, search, then read some more Group: Members Posts: 166 Joined: 19-July 04 From: Overland Park, KS Member No.: 2,374 |
In removing the rear bumper from my car I notices that the PO had used mud on the rear right tail under the light housing (didn't bother to even sand it smooth so it was even with the surrounding area before painting). I've read other places that the factory even used mud to even out the bodywork prior to factory paint.
My question is, where on the car is this a bad idea (of course I know not to do it on the longs/hell hole areas)? |
rhilgers |
Oct 26 2004, 11:27 AM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 75 Joined: 17-July 03 From: Santa Clara CA Member No.: 919 |
Evercoat Metal-2-Metal is easier to find in my area. It the same type of stuff but harder to work with.
I tried to hammer the stuff off a test sheet..nothing doin. It does not come off. BTW: Ever wonder where the seam goes where the door meets near the latch? When the paint is original , why is the area around the fender seam by the window less glossy than the rest of the car? lead...lead...lead. Lots of it. Be carefull! Dont smoke that lead! Hootus..now that was a funny thread! -Rich Hilgersom http://www.evercoat.com Metal-2-Metalâ„¢ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Aluminum filled body repair filler for metal surfaces. Has excellent corrosion resistance and superior adhesion to galvanized steel and aluminum. Will not sag. Best known as the "nearest thing to lead." Moisture proof. Rustproof. Easily sands to a fine featheredge. Metal-2-Metalâ„¢ liquid reactor included. |
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