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McLovin |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 110 Joined: 31-August 16 From: Tallahassee, FL Member No.: 20,360 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Hey all,
I hope it's OK to open another thread about the same car. I wrote a thread about how I got my car and some of the surprises that cropped up during inspection. That thread is here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=307469 But now, I realized I needed an on-going thread for the "restoration". So I'll post more pictures here as penance! So some background: Most of my life I've dabbled with Jalopies....mostly VWs in poor shape. Piece of crap cars and my emphasis was on getting them running or keeping them running and trying to take a car that's a "3" and make it a "6". Now I find myself with a nicer hobby car that it's at least a "7" and I've never dealt with these kinds of ownership issues. Know what I mean? This is foreign territory for me. So below are some pictures I took this afternoon. That's the reflection of a cloud in the paint in the first picture. However, you can tell I need to reglue a sail panel in the last picture. Tomorrow (or Sunday) I'll figure out why it's leaking oil, why my Alternator light is glowing, and order some front brake calipers. I'll probably reglue my sail panels too since that's easy. After I tackle those issues, I'll be moving onto deeper reliability and appearance issues. So check out the pictures. Notice how the window doesn't fit? It is rolled all the way up but it seems to sit cock-eyed and doesn't go high enough. It's very tight against the seal on the right. Pardon the reflection of the dopey looking guy. Anyway, the window is the first cosmetic thing I want to tackle. Seems like the door is bolted up crooked, and maybe the seals in the door frame were put on crooked or missing? If anyone has pictures of how those seals are supposed to go, I'd appreciate a photo. Other items will involve getting a better steering wheel or restoring one, improving the paint by (possibly) wet sanding it, glueing in the interior, putting on some decals, putting in a new radio, perhaps going to a dual carb setup, and generally making the car reliable enough to take a long trip. Mclovin ![]() ![]() ![]() 053]] ![]() ![]() |
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JeffBowlsby |
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#2
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914 Wiring Harnesses & Beekeeper ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,969 Joined: 7-January 03 From: San Ramon CA Member No.: 104 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
D+ is the red wire on the alternator. There is no B+.
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McLovin |
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#3
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 110 Joined: 31-August 16 From: Tallahassee, FL Member No.: 20,360 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
D+ is the red wire on the alternator. There is no B+. Thanks. That's the way I felt when I got my grades in high school too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Thanks also to the fella who confirmed I need an engine seal. I was pretty sure I needed one. Hey, I had some success! I replaced a blown fuse (4th from the right on the fuse box), and my Alternator light is fixed! From what I read, the fuse is supposed to be related to the horn and the brake lights, but I'm thankful! It does light up prior to startup so I know it's working right. I also verified I was getting a charge with my multimeter. 12.75 volts at the battery before starting, 13.09 volts at idle. 13.25 when I goosed the throttle a bit. Didn't want to rev it way up since I couldn't see the tach while I was doing it. Next issue: My cloud of smoke oil leak is definitely push rod tubes. I was able to get my cell phone under there and saw the leak (see crappy picture below). It's also in the right place. Happily, it's only leaking from one side of the car, which cuts the job in half. The $64,000 question is this: Do I need to remove the engine to swap out those push rod tube seals? I don't think I had to do it with my old bus, but it's tight in there! Thanks for all the help! ![]() |
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