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BRAVE_HELIOS |
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#1
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
Hey all,
Inching closer to going electric on my V8 conversion car. Right now; going through the process of cleaning out radiator and water passages/block with ThermoCure, then Prestone citric acid flush. Assuming I get a really clean system but not fix the run hot situation; I will go electric. Where is the best place to mount the electric pump? It would seem that the easiest way to go in my case is with this: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Pro.../50930/10002/-1 ![]() It a 50 GPM unit that should bolt right up to the Renegade remote water pump housing already in place in my car on the lower left hand side of the engine... that is assuming there is enough clearance between the water pump and the firewall. Would this work? I have heard stories going back and forth about mounting the pump by the radiator or by the engine. |
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914GT |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,100 Joined: 11-October 04 From: Tucson Member No.: 2,923 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
I've used 3/4" I.D. steel pipe under the car for coolant lines and never had overheating problems, and that's here in southern Arizona on a car with A/C. I've also used 1" I.D. steel tubing and it made no difference. If you have larger rubber hose then I don't think that's your problem.
I think having an electric water pump on the radiator outlet makes for an easier install, and is easier to access, but remember again that during hard acceleration the coolant is moving away from the suction side of the pump and not toward it as when it's at the engine. For a street car it's probably not a big deal, but on the drag cars that can experience a few Gs that would be a different story. I assume that you open that top radiator petcock when you fill your system and keep it open until no more air bubbles come out. I have a short length of clear vinyl tubing on mine that runs to the bottom of the car, then I keep an eye on it closing it only until there's no more bubbles. Otherwise if there's a pocket of air in the top of the radiator it will not get purged out under normal operation, and it decreases the cooling capacity of the radiator and system pressure. You might also try to disconnect the heater core to see what effect it is having unless you have a valve on the line controlled by your dash heater lever. With it connected as it is now in the front it will bypass the radiator. On a stock SBC the heater supply line comes off the top of the intake manifold before the thermostat then returns into the suction side of the water pump. This circulates hot coolant in a separate loop then that flow going to the radiator. If you keep the heater core across the radiator you may need a restrictor in the line so it's not bypassing too much around the radiator. |
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