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jimkelly |
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#1
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Delaware USA ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
anyone have a 914 stub axle laying around?
i was wondering what the OD is of the splined area. i'm thinking of using a second stub axle bolted to main stub axle and having the second splined to fit this vw splined flange that is type1 to type2/4 (924/944 100mm cv), for wheel side. or simply turn down the stub axle so the flange can simply be welded to it. this would make the trans side and wheel side easy, but simply needing welding, after cutting and lathing. pair of 924 axles $150 DTA brand on ebay. 4 flanges $35 x 4ea = $140 924 axles are 16.125" AND 944 AXLES ARE ?" http://www.blindchickenracing.com/how_to/c...s/axles_101.htm Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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jimkelly |
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#2
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Delaware USA ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
my thought is that with everyone saying that when cutting and resplining a stock 914 axle to use with a suby cv at trans and 914 cv at wheel, that there is practically no margin for error on length, that two flanges and a 924 or 944 axle assy has got to be more forgiving, and stronger too.
are you bolting the two stub axles together or welding them together? is your flange attached using the splines or is your flange going to be welded to the innermost stub axle? i am leaning towards welding it all together. |
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