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steuspeed |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,010 Joined: 12-July 11 From: Portland, Oregon Member No.: 13,308 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
Installed a new Ate 17mm Master and rebuilt the right rear caliper. It was sticking on. I have gone around several times bleeding each corner with the pedal method. It still does not feel 100% solid. Any suggestions out there? Maybe air trapped by the top bleeders? I'm using Ate super blue which I found is no longer available (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) I did not bench bleed the master.
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McMark |
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None ![]() |
First, make sure the plunger on the brake pedal is adjusted. There should be a small amount of pedal movement before the plunger actually contacts the piston in the MC. If the piston can't fully retract, that's an issue.
Make 3 plugs (How To here). Depress the brake pedal (with a tool, a brick, or a helper), this will keep reservoir fluid from continually dripping out and making a mess by blocking the internal MC passages. Do this ANY time you're cracking into the fluid system. Remove the three brake lines from the MC and install plugs (yes, fully plugged off). Get in the car and press the pedal until it's rock hard (not a little hard, fully, no-motion, rock hard). No cracking lines or opening bleeders. Switch back and forth from fully pressing the pedal to tapping the pedal with your foot, without depressing it, and the back and forth between those two. The tapping works really well for the MC bleed as it knocks more bubbles loose, AND the plugs mean the air has nowhere to go, so fully pressing the pedal closes the MC internal passages, so air can only bubble up into the reservoir when the pedal is 90% up or more. Now your MC is fully bled. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Now one at a time bring the brake calipers back in. Remove the rearward plug and reinstall the line. Bleed both rear calipers until the pedal is hard (make sure the venting clearance is set). Now your MC and rear brakes are bled. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Remove one of the other two plugs and reinstall the line. Bleed the caliper that you just added until the pedal is hard. Remove the last plug and reinstall the line. Bleed the final caliper until the pedal is hard. Now your entire brake system is bled. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/monkeydance.gif) If you don't fully bleed the MC you will either spent TONS of time chasing bubbles, or give up and just accept sub-par brakes. Follow that system and you'll get the firmest pedal in the shortest amount of time. If the pedal feels SAFE take a short test drive. Bleed the brakes at all four calipers again, just to release any bubbles that collected in the caliper. Repeat the drive and bleed process a few more times with longer drives in between bleedings. Again, make sure the pedal feels SAFE!!!! |
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