Valve Adjusters Revisited - Now also valve lash caps! Options

[bbrock]

I know valve adjustment screws have discussed to death, but frankly, the information is all over the mat and the more I read, the more confused I get. I'm hoping to get some clarity for my build. Here's the situation: stock "GA" 2.0L engine. The only mod on this engine is the OE camshaft got a mild regrind for carbs and I installed euro spec (flat top) pistons. This is not a performance build, just looking for reliability.

The heads are in Sonoma being rebuilt right now and, based on advice from this forum, will get a new set of SS valves. I have a box full of rocker assemblies from several engines, including both 8mm and 10mm versions. My original plan was to install the 10mm rockers with a new set of OE adjustment screws, but I have read that SS valves require either swivel foot adjusters or lash caps to protect the stem ends. True or False? Manley valves have hardened tips (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

If it's true that SS valves need extra protection, I like the swivel foot adjuster options, but they are damn expensive and i AM trying to stay in a budget here. Lash caps seems the less expensive option but what is the best way to deal with the extra length they add to the valve stems?

Again, I'm just looking for a reliable engine that provides new stock performance. I'm not interested in upgrades that only benefit high performance engines or provide nothing but bragging rights.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[bbrock]

I need to stay off this board... or I will end up doing work on something that I thought was settled. Those adjusters look tempting.

Ha! If you are like me, something like this would wear on me until I break down and do it. I have the benefit of 7-8 months of winter so plenty of garage time to fiddle.

Good point about the jug shims. I haven't decked my engine yet so something to keep in mind. I'm learning it isn't as easy as just rebuilding the heads and then bolting all the old parts back on like I did with my bus rebuild. That ran well for about 30K miles until the aforementioned #3 exhaust valve grenaded the engine. I just assumed it was because I had reused valves that already had about 120K on them, but maybe not addressing the geometry contributed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Last question... for now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) What is the first indication of a crappy adjustment screw? Do the valves just start going out of adjustment fast?

In short, the swivel head fails. Either jamming in place or breaking off entirely. Usually when the engine is at red line, because Murphy is a bitch.
I had a set on my engine for a long time. Upgraded to Jakes full valve train kit with the good screws. Gave my old ones away and one of them failed shortly there after. I felt like crap about that.

Zach

So what kind of damage did that do Zach? It doesn't sound good but trying to think of worst case. Maybe worst would be bending a valve and crashing a piston into it? Okay, that's pretty bad.