Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> Inside Tunnel Rust
DennisO
post Aug 26 2018, 11:47 AM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 61
Joined: 9-June 17
From: Clayton, NC
Member No.: 21,162
Region Association: South East States



Hi All,

I finally had time to get back to my '75 project after life kept getting in the way :-) I have about 95% of the car disassembled and have a pretty good idea of all the rust and hidden damage. The floor pans have some surface rust and a couple of spots that might need a patch (eg by brake/clutch pedals). However, the floor inside the tunnel has some pretty good rust that must be dealt with. Odd, but it look like water leaked just inside the tunnel and sat.

Is there a good way to remove the tunnel to access the floor underneath? This is probably not a good idea, but can the floor be cut on both sides of the tunnel, removed, cleaned, painted, and rewelded? Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Dennis
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies
IronHillRestorations
post Aug 26 2018, 03:30 PM
Post #2


I. I. R. C.
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,833
Joined: 18-March 03
From: West TN
Member No.: 439
Region Association: None



Taking out the center tunnel is a major undertaking if you are just trying to mitigate the corrosion of a serviceable floor pan.

Tape up the wiring harness, and remove all control cables. Double check your clutch tube, as now would be the time to repair it if needed. I'll usually reinforce the firewall where it comes through, at the minimum.

This method requires correct respiratory protection, and I'm not talking about a fiber particle mask, you need a respirator for paints and/or acid. As you'll be spraying both.

What I've done in the past is use a undercoating kit with the different spray wands and nozzles. I start with very hot water and rinse it out, then more hot water with a cleaner (wet pickup shop vac as needed to clean up the water), and then rinse off the cleaner with clean water. While wet spray it all with 50/50 solution of Ospho, let it sit for a few mins and re-spray the 50/50 mix, wait a few more mins then rinse with more clean water. Clean up all the mess and spray it all good and dry with air, you can use the wands an nozzles for this too. You can also run your shop vac in reverse to blow it all dry. Let it sit for a day or so to make sure it's all dry. Then spray it with Eastwood's "Internal Frame Coating" really well, 2 or 3 coats. I'd do this with the longs too, just don't use as much water so you don't damage the paper coated heater tubes.

My undercoating/rustproofing kit is about 25 years, so I don't know what's out there now. Mine has 3 different wands, 3 nozzles, and came with 3 poly paint/solution bottles that screw on the gun.

Here's the Eastwood internal coating, it's the stuff to use. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-...oz-aerosol.html
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Posts in this topic


Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 15th July 2025 - 03:38 AM