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amfab |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 401 Joined: 17-May 16 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 20,004 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I have a couple of questions about my engine compartment for my 74 3.2 six conversion—what to I need to keep and what can I get rid of? The passengers engine shelf needs replacing, and the driver’s side needs a little work.
While I am in working on the engine compartment what can I get rid of for a cleaner installation? On the drivers side I have removed the shelf brackets for the relay plate, and the bracket for the blower. Should I remove the ground stud that comes out? Is there anything I should weld shut on that side while I am fixing up the engine shelf? On the passenger’s side—same question. Also, do I need that angled piece of sheetmetal/bracket that spans the indentation on the upper part of the inner suspension ear? My four-cyl was not stock when I got it and I do not know what that is for. TIA -Andrew |
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Dave_Darling |
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#2
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914 Idiot ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 15,161 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
The bracket on the right side of the engine bay is for the MPS and Decel Valve. Might come in handy for mounting something on your Six, but probably not.
If you are using a crossbar engine mount, you obviously need to keep the motor mount pods. If not, you don't need them. The relay board is actually handy for giving a single connection point for (most of) the electrical stuff for the motor. Not absolutely required, but it can be a nice thing to have. You will have to work out how to connect in all of the stuff that would have gone there in your new setup, since it sounds like you're axing the board. --DD |
amfab |
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#3
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 401 Joined: 17-May 16 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 20,004 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Thanks Dave, I forgot to mention the four mounts are already off—prolly gonna go with a PMS mount.
I noticed some rust pitting under the drivers side mount when I took it—it is solid but I thought I would layer another layer of 18ga over to reinforce it. If I tack on a reinforcement layer there between the firewall and suspension console, do I need to keep that dimple in the long for anything? |
mepstein |
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#4
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914-6 GT in waiting ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 19,877 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
Thanks Dave, I forgot to mention the four mounts are already off—prolly gonna go with a PMS mount. I noticed some rust pitting under the drivers side mount when I took it—it is solid but I thought I would layer another layer of 18ga over to reinforce it. If I tack on a reinforcement layer there between the firewall and suspension console, do I need to keep that dimple in the long for anything? The dimple is a good place to drill a hole for the DME wires to enter the cabin. that's assuming you are keeping the brain inside the cabin. I do on my 3.2. I used the PMS engine to body harness adapter. It's about $200 and is plug and play. Uses stock 14 pin connectors. No relay board needed. It's pretty easy to fuse your fuel pump. Even I did it. If you are using the stock air box - I did, it's much easier without the relay board in the way. I have the Naro motorsports mount. It's like a PMS mount but less expensive and maybe a little nicer. It's also a good time to fit your oil tank. On some cars, there needs to be some clearancing of the door sill reinforcement bracket. Easier to do now than when the engine is in the car. |
amfab |
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#5
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 401 Joined: 17-May 16 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 20,004 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Thanks Dave, I forgot to mention the four mounts are already off—prolly gonna go with a PMS mount. I noticed some rust pitting under the drivers side mount when I took it—it is solid but I thought I would layer another layer of 18ga over to reinforce it. If I tack on a reinforcement layer there between the firewall and suspension console, do I need to keep that dimple in the long for anything? The dimple is a good place to drill a hole for the DME wires to enter the cabin. that's assuming you are keeping the brain inside the cabin. I do on my 3.2. I used the PMS engine to body harness adapter. It's about $200 and is plug and play. Uses stock 14 pin connectors. No relay board needed. It's pretty easy to fuse your fuel pump. Even I did it. If you are using the stock air box - I did, it's much easier without the relay board in the way. I have the Naro motorsports mount. It's like a PMS mount but less expensive and maybe a little nicer. It's also a good time to fit your oil tank. On some cars, there needs to be some clearancing of the door sill reinforcement bracket. Easier to do now than when the engine is in the car. Thanks Mark, I am gonna put the DME inside the Passengers compartment—was it you that said the cable is long enough to mount it under the dash? The dimples to which I was referring are not the ones in the firewall. I mean the ones on the edge of the long. See the rough picture I drew of it below. I was thinking of putting a reinforcement piece (shown in blue) which would cover the dimple. I think the dimple is for the four engine mount, is there any reason to have it on a six? ![]() |
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