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Ken Mikos |
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#1
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 28 Joined: 20-February 14 From: Pgh Member No.: 17,024 Region Association: None ![]() |
Replacing motor and transmission mounts in a original 1973 1.7. Any suggestion on the type and where to purchase? Thanks,
Ken |
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Dave_Darling |
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#2
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914 Idiot ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 15,209 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
For a track-only car? Solid all the way around. Keeps the drivetrain more positively located.
May cause loosening issues with some fasteners on the engine; I seem to recall some kind of issue with Webers being blamed on solid mounts? --DD |
GregAmy |
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,519 Joined: 22-February 13 From: Middletown CT Member No.: 15,565 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
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GregAmy |
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#4
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,519 Joined: 22-February 13 From: Middletown CT Member No.: 15,565 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
For a track-only car? Solid all the way around. Keeps the drivetrain more positively located. I'm thinking JWest hard nylon fronts, and Wevo Blues in back? Here's an interesting data point, Dave: my engine is already mounted solid. As in metal-to-metal. In order to fit the dry sump pump in there, Tangerine had fabbed an engine mounting bracket out of steel plate. Pulled the drivetrain this week and noticed it yesterday...that might help to explain how one of the engine frame mount bolts on the outer end of the crossmember had come loose and the nut departed the car... I'll go with the Wevos in back. |
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