‘74 2.0 Wont Start Options

[Jackba]

Hello,
I’ve read through quite a few posts on this subject While working through the problem but I’m still stuck. I hope someone can point me in the right direction.

This is an original car with FI. Car was cutting out while on the freeway. Was able to get it home. Weeks later I got back to it, started it and took it on a test drive. It was cutting out even worse on local streets. Got it home.

Posted on the site and the advice was to pull and clean distributor. Did that and checked trigger points ignition points and cap. Looked good. Changed condenser. Checked all wires and saw nothing out of place. Removed and checked and cleaned the board on throttle body. Very clean with minimal tracing. Hooked up battery and turned key to on 4 times. Fuel pump running. Pressed accelerator to check for 20 clicks. Then tried to start. Cranks well and catches then dies after one revolution. Tried again several times and it only cranks. Tried again and it catches and runs well for 3 seconds. This was repeated many times in no particular order.
Still won’t run.

I rechecked the static timing again and went through the same process and got the same results.

Next I plan to pull the fuel filter and injectors and see if I’m getting fuel. If no fuel in the rails could it be the fuel pump even though it runs for 1.5 seconds each time I turn on the ignition? Fuel pump is 3 port and probably original to the car.

Any other ideas are welcome.

Thanks in advance,
Jack

[Jackba]

Pulled the tank, just to rule it out. Some debris on the lower part of the sock but nothing that would restrict flow. Also pulled the last two injectors and checked the spray pattern. Good.
Unfortunately it still won’t start.

So here’s a summary of all steps taken to get it back on the road.

Symptoms:
Cutting out on the freeway. Got it home.
After some time, started the car and drove it around the block. Bucking badly.

Changed condenser
Disassembled distributor and ultrasonically cleaned all components
Fresh grease between the plates
New points
Inspected trigger points
Centered trigger points using ohmmeter and rotating shaft. Reassembled distributor.
Set points and static timed to #1 at TDC
Attempted to start. Turns over but won’t catch and run
Checked fuel pressure: 30 #s
Checked injector plugs with Noid light. All good
Cleaned relay plate relays and contacts
Now fuel pump doesn’t run...
Diagnosed open circuit on relay plate
Installed replacement relay plate from Brad Mayeur
Fuel pump running
Changed fuel filter. Not clogged very little residue
Tried to start with starter fluid. Starts and runs for 2-3 seconds then dies.,same as with fuel only
Pulled injectors and bench cleaned with carb cleaner and 3v battery. No gunk. Good spray pattern.
Reinstalled injectors checked injector plug fit. Good and tight
Pulled fuel tank. Some residue on bottom of sock but nothing that would restrict flow.
Reinstalled tank and added 3 gallons of fresh gas.
Verified resistance at the CHT at ~ 3000 ohms @ room temp

Still won’t start...

So, I have spark, I have fuel and throttle body is clean with a recent TPS board that shows very little wear. Injectors are working. What am I missing?

[Spoke]

Changed condenser

I'm not a fan of points and condenser. Pertronix and other solid state or CD solutions are much better and reliable. Not saying this is your issue, just saying I'd never run points and condenser again.

Centered trigger points using ohmmeter and rotating shaft. Reassembled distributor.

Not sure what you mean about "centered trigger points. So you verified with an ohmmeter that the contacts open and close? It just seems that your engine is not getting fuel when running. The fuel pump pressurizes the system and you get 2-3 seconds of running then dies. It just seems like the fuel pump isn't running when trying to run the engine.

Attempted to start. Turns over but won’t catch and run

You said before the engine runs 2-3 seconds then dies. Is that still the operation?

Checked fuel pressure: 30 #s

I'm assuming you measured the fuel pressure while cranking the engine. Is the fuel pump running when you did the measurement?

Tried to start with starter fluid. Starts and runs for 2-3 seconds then dies.,same as with fuel only

I wonder if you kept spraying starter fluid if the engine would continue to run. Have you tried a test like this? You'd need someone to crank the engine while you stay in the engine compartment spraying starting fluid. If the engine continues to run then you know it's fuel related.

BTW, with all the work you're doing on the engine, have you removed the engine lid to give better access? I do this now when changing plugs and such if it's a long job. I've even grinded the oval mounting hole on the lid hinge so I don't have to remove the securing bolts. Working on the engine with the lid in place really cramps things up.