Outer CV removal while in car? Options

[bretth]

Anyone have a method for removing outer CV joints while still on car? My trans is out and just the shafts are still connected. I want to flat tow the car without engine, trans, or drive shafts.

[David Billo]

But, how, I think, is the question. It's near impossible to get anything in there to coax the CV joint off the stub axle flange. Even after removing the bolts, they are very tightly mated to the stub. What did you use, Mark? My understanding is that the stub needs to be pulled so you can pry them off on the bench, but can you back off the castle nut and pound on it from the outside?

I tried to remove one of mine (stupidly) by using the half axle like a slide hammer. This popped the circlip off the end of the shaft, but I DON'T RECOMMEND this method, as I think it might be just as likely to break the circlip, or worse, chip a piece off the end of the shaft. And, of course, the CV joint is still on there.

[Mark Henry]

But, how, I think, is the question. It's near impossible to get anything in there to coax the CV joint off the stub axle flange. Even after removing the bolts, they are very tightly mated to the stub. What did you use, Mark? My understanding is that the stub needs to be pulled so you can pry them off on the bench, but can you back off the castle nut and pound on it from the outside?

I tried to remove one of mine (stupidly) by using the half axle like a slide hammer. This popped the circlip off the end of the shaft, but I DON'T RECOMMEND this method, as I think it might be just as likely to break the circlip, or worse, chip a piece off the end of the shaft. And, of course, the CV joint is still on there.

I didn't think of that, his bolts had failed the CV was already off.
I'd pull the stubs out, I have an air zip gun I put the pointy end punch in and the stubs usually hammer right out without hurting the bearing. Then remove the shaft/CV and put the stubs back in for towing.