Major Cooling System issues, Flap system removed by PO Options

[Gatornapper]

Need the Brain Trust help again - big time.

Up to now, nothing I've faced in getting this sweet 14 running and back on the road has been major or disheartening. Lots of new stuff, running pretty good but not perfect, etc. That just changed.

Ever since getting the engine running a few months ago, I was concerned that it took a long time to warm up. My first 1 hour + drive was last week - and temps got too high for my comfort - about 1/4" from red line. So I've been drilling down on that issue.

For one thing, car sat in a barn (new one) for 12 years - so I wondered about mice nests above the cylinders from the day I bought the car. Yesterday with my scope I found, yes, they are there between the cylinders - at least between 2 & 4. I think I can get them out with a small vacuum through the spark plug holes in the top tins.....we'll see.

Due to total ignorance of 914's and VW engines, I know nothing of the air ducting system, but in the learning process, and thanks to anderssj , I find the whole flap/door system and its controls are missing. Gone.

So I can only assume that the PO removed them due to problems with overheating. Stupid move for sure. I have to correct that. I understand that move itself could cause overheating.

I dread pulling the carbs, intake manifolds, distributor and other stuff to get the top tins off.

Plan is to see if I can get the mouse stuff off the cylinders with a small vacuum, make sure all is clean with my scope. If successful, I'll then drive the car and see if it still gets too hot. If I can't get the debris removed with vacuum, I know I have to pull the top tins.

But I am told that not having the flap system itself could cause overheating. So I have to get that system installed and working.

Yes, I know the many potential causes of overheating like improper timing, plugs, etc. Timing good, plugs good - new. Valves adjusted by dealer about 1,500 miles ago.

Got a lot of work ahead - all when I wanted to have the car ready for the big PCA 9/14 914 Vintage Drive.

Any help and advice is of course, as always, appreciated.

GN

[Superhawk996]

Just want to be clear my intent isn’t to start a pissing contest but rather to reiterate that these engines were designed to work in a certain operational envelope and they do that well as designed.

If you do or have any of the following:
Lug engines on hills or on flat ground
Race under high loads and high RPMs with high rate valve springs to support those RPMs
Have blocked Cooling fins or oil cooler fins
Drive in 100F+ weather with Dealer added A/C
Improper fuel ratios
Improper engine timing
Disabled cooling flaps

You will encounter some sort of temperature issues. Feel free to re-engineer as you see fit to suit the need. I’m a live and let live guy! Have fun with it!

Otherwise a street driven vehicle in normal temperatures ought not be overheating in the first place. Although an engine temp of 180F - 200F is not abnormal for water pumpers, it is on the low end for air cooled engines. Don’t freak out at 225 oil temp. Change often but don’t freak out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)