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mountainroads |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 210 Joined: 19-February 12 From: Seattle Member No.: 14,145 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
with the engine installed? Instructions and videos I've seen all show how to do the job with the engine removed. Presumably, during an engine rebuild or car restoration. Does it help to remove the sheet metal? -6, if it matters. Thanks in advance.
- MR |
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mountainroads |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 210 Joined: 19-February 12 From: Seattle Member No.: 14,145 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
Thanks for all the input/responses. I'm not thrilled by the consensus answer(s), but you guys have waaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyy more experience than I, so I grudgingly accept this will likely be an engine out proposition. The oil temp never got anywhere concerning during the last spirited drive, but the engine bay sure felt warm after I stopped the car and it sat for a few minutes. I also had bit of a challenge getting the car going again after it sat for a few, which I'm attributing to vapor lock (thought I heard bubbling in the carbs. Grrrr...). First time for that, and I didn't like it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
So, I wonder how much of a contributing factor the worn seals are, since you can see past them? The real pisser is both the mechanic and the body guy had ample opportunity to say: "Hey, while the engines out, we think it would be smart to replace these worn seals". All the other rubber got replaced. Not a peep about these. "Experts" are supposed to know this stuff. I can screw up just fine by myself without engaging the services of a pro. - MR |
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