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> Gluing trunk/frunk skins to frame, Need ahesive recommendation
bbrock
post Sep 8 2019, 06:18 PM
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Doing a bit of rehab on my front trunk lid in preparation for paint. One side of the A-frame member is stuck tight to the skin but the other side has lifted off about 3/32". I want to glue the lifted side down but don't know what adhesive would work best. 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive looks like it would be the ultimate but kind of expensive and probably overkill for this application. Any suggestions?

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bbrock
post Sep 10 2019, 03:14 PM
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All, Thanks for the suggestions. Let me explain a bit more about what is going on here and what I plan to do.

First, the lid fits great. I've checked it several times to be sure. The gap between the frame and skin I want to bond is very small. It is only 1/16" to 3/32". The frame can easily be pressed tight to the skin with light thumb pressure

Below is a pic of the frame. I've done a lot of careful probing to verify how this thing is bonded. The blue line is the area where the frame is firmly bonded to the skin. I can neither flex (gently of course) the frame away from the skin there, nor can I slide a thin putty knife blade under that area. It is tight to the skin. My plan is to bond the matching area of the frame next to the yellow line. I'm unsure whether the orange area was originally bonded. This is the only area the frame is attached to the skin other than the perimeter that is crimped over the frame edge. This is clearly intended to allow the panel to float to allow for expansion and contraction. But this is precisely why I think an elastic adhesive is called for here.

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So why did the frame lift off? Maybe the glue just broke down with age but I'm pretty sure it had some help. At the front end of the yellow line, you can see a small patch I welded in. The hood had been shut with a wrench or something laying near the shock mount that punch a little crinkle in the frame. It did not affect the skin and the distortion of the frame was slight but I'll bet when it happened, the force was enough to pop the frame loose along the yellow line. I've patched and straightened the damage to the frame and now just need to restore the rigidity to match the other side.

And yes, I'll be checking the fit again before committing the lid to paint. BTW, I'm not the only one to re-glue a frunk lid http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2590450 Now that I've looked at that again, I'm thinking I'll just do the same here.
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