Breaking in New Engine, Leaks...crankcase pressure? Options

[BeatNavy]

The last week or so I've been breaking in a new engine I built last winter and finally manage to install a couple of weeks ago. I'm pretty happy with how it pulls, and after a LOT of fiddling with the MPS and timing I think I've got it where it will start right up, idle cold (barely), idle nicely when warm, and run with nice cool head temps. I do seem to have a slight bit of ping/detonation under load around 2800 to 3000 RPM, so I guess I need to play with timing a bit more.

I am much less happy with the oil leaks. I know building a leak-free Type IV is a challenge, and given this is my first effort, I didn't expect perfection. But right now it's leaking pretty badly in a couple of places: out of the transmission weep hole (probably RMS, I guess), somewhere around oil filter console and/or pressure relief valve, and, surprisingly, what seems to be sort of spraying out and around oil filler neck.

Here I need help from the World; I see a combination of three possible causes for this many leaks (when I otherwise took my time and tried to follow guidelines, using Jake's recommended sealants):

1. My own inexperience
2. Too much crankcase pressure from rings not seating yet
3. Too much crankcase pressure from no head venting.

Here are some details on build:

2056 with 9950 Cam using D-Jet
Brand new AA Heads built by HAM, and Len sealed up the vents
96mm KB Pistons with Hastings Rings
8.6 CR

A couple of notes: I didn't gap the rings per Jake's philosophy that crankcase pressure is what causes oil leaks, and the rings come properly gapped. Also, Len (and Jake) don't like head venting for oil flow (so my heads had vent plugged). If I understand him correctly, Len told me the stock PCV vale should provide enough crankcase pressure relief on a street car. RMS is the Sabo brand (the "good" one).

Any thoughts on 1, 2 or 3 above? I'm willing to pull the engine and reseal, but I wanted to see if 2 or 3 are possibilities that I need to address. Is the stock PCV valve (which I am sure is not clogged) enough pressure relief?

Thanks for any help.

[BeatNavy]

Thanks, Frank. Good points. The knocking/detonation thing is perplexing me a bit. Tried adjusting the MPS a little richer at WOT to see if that would help, but there was still some under heavy load. Still need to fiddle more with timing, I guess, but I either need to fix my advance timing light or buy a new one. Also entertaining buying a cooler range of spark plug. Anyone have thoughts there?

Good news is oil leaks are significantly better, and the engine gives nice power - a lot of fun to drive (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) and the weather is looking NICE for the next few days.

[Frank S]

Also entertaining buying a cooler range of spark plug. Anyone have thoughts there?

[/quote]

I'm running NGK BP6RES and they are looking good.

Regarding the timing, I run a programmable system.
Idles fine between 10 and 12° BTDC with maximum advance of 27° BTDC from 3000 RPM onwards.

Had plans to adjust timing on a dyno, but next winter project is to update the engine with a DIY Stealth Megasquirt system, so I never tried to run more advance, I know Jake recommends 28° BTDC but the engine is running cool and strong as it is and I will put it on the Dyno after the upgrade...