Differences between amateur and professional wiring? Options

[Tdskip]

OK guys - we have some very talented people here and I'm hoping to bring my wiring skills up a level.

What separates amateur wiring from a pro level? One item that comes to mind - no use of Harbor Freight connectors (which I am guilt of).

What else comes to mind?

[76-914]

Solder your crimp fittings to take it to the next level. All solder joints should be shiny when completed. Connectors should be marine grade heat shrink style that require a heat gun to complete. Wiring should be bundled neatly and routed in a manner that does not cause stress on any of the wires. Wires should be of the required size, color coded or labeled in a manner that makes identification easy. That should get your started. The real pros will chime in shortly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
EDIT: buy a good set of crimpers. They'll be north of $70

[Superhawk996]

Solder your crimp fittings to take it to the next level.

EDIT: buy a good set of crimpers. They'll be north of $70

Agree completely that you need a good set of crimpers. Note that crimpers are specific to the type of termination you are using (Spade, Molex, Weatherpack, Deutsch, Amphenol, etc.). 914's use really low end spade connectors which are really low tech but cheap and easy to fix which has it merits. Mac Tools and Snap-on both have some nice crimers that basically roll the crimp inward rather than simply crushing it from both sides like cheap crimping pliers.

....Soldering should not be used in an automotive strand wire application.
Why Not?

Beware of soldering vehicle wiring. The solder wicks up into the wire and creates a non flexible termination. If the soldered termination is subject to vibration (and it will be in a car) it will fatigue and crack over time. I know there are DoD military vehicles with soldered connections and I can tell you horror stories about that wiring and associated military style Amphenol connectors. Likewise I've seen plenty of race cars with soldered connections. Some good, some terrible. Race cars are not typically subjected to decades of use. Not saying don't ever solder but minimize it and for sure don't over do the solder and have it wicking up into the wire beyond where the crimp ends. Personally no solder for me.

Trying to create a shrink wrap strain relief often creates more havoc that what it was intended to prevent. Automotive wiring needs flexibilty at its termination to survive. Nothing wrong with a little bit of strain relief where harness split's into Y formations though. Again, don't over do it. Flexibility is critical to survival.

You will not find soldered connectors (other than on a mid harness splice) on modern vehicles. Not for cost but rather that you want the flexibility of a crip termination and the lack of vibration fatigue problems.

As previously referenced what sets the men from the boys:

1) Neatness. Braided sheath, convolute, or simple wiring tape really makes it tidy.

2) Leaving enough service length so the connector isn't severely flex'd and so it can be removed later without stressing the wire.

3) Properly crimped connections. Crimp them, then pull on them - hard, they should not slip or give. A properly crimed connector will not let lose before the wire itself breaks.

4) Color coding and consistency. Don't be cheap. Buy quality wires with unique tracer markings. Plenty of sources for vintange and German wiring colors.

https://www.riwire.com/

Look at Jeff Bowlsby's wiring harness designs. Very nice and a good benchmark to shoot for.