Anyone used the longitudinal outer clamshells on a street car?, Time for hard choices |
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Anyone used the longitudinal outer clamshells on a street car?, Time for hard choices |
Superhawk996 |
Mar 22 2020, 06:46 PM
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#21
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,900 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Curious if anyone has use the outer longitudinal clamshell reinforcement on a street car?
Did you have any unforseen down stream effects to other panels like the door jamb, or the rocker panel? Also thickens the upper flange and I'm wondering if this will cause fit issues later with the door stripping, or maybe even the cosmetic sill plates. Starting to seem like this might be a good idea for race car prep but probably not ideal for just trying to fit up replacement sheetmetal and still have OEM fits. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I'm not in love with the additional weight either. I can keep mocking up additional pieces but thought I'd see what the collective wisdom of the forum knows. |
ClayPerrine |
Mar 23 2020, 11:26 AM
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#22
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Life's been good to me so far..... Group: Admin Posts: 15,520 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
I have the Brad Mauyer external longitudinal kit installed on my Red six. I had it installed at the body shop when I got it painted.
The kit actually isn't that heavy, and everything fit over it with no issues. The car is so stiff I can put a jack under the jack point and both wheels come off the ground together. The top didn't squeak until after the 4.0 motor went in. Now I get a little body flex. I can't use the factory jack points, but that is because the body shop didn't know what they were for and didn't install the correctly. My fault for not explaining the installation to them. The stock long is a flat piece of steel, with a waffled piece welded to it at the points where they touch. The add on is a flat piece of steel welded to the top of the waffle piece. It is like making corrugated cardboard. If you peel the top layer off corrugted cardboard, it is flexy. With the top layer on it, it is really stiff and still fairly light. When we finally get Betty's car done, it is getting a Brad Mauyer kit. After 400K, and lots of AX usage, poor old Frody is getting a bit flexy. |
burton73 |
Mar 23 2020, 12:20 PM
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#23
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burton73 Group: Members Posts: 3,552 Joined: 2-January 07 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 7,414 Region Association: Southern California |
I have the Brad Mauyer external longitudinal kit installed on my Red six. I had it installed at the body shop when I got it painted. The kit actually isn't that heavy, and everything fit over it with no issues. The car is so stiff I can put a jack under the jack point and both wheels come off the ground together. The top didn't squeak until after the 4.0 motor went in. Now I get a little body flex. I can't use the factory jack points, but that is because the body shop didn't know what they were for and didn't install the correctly. My fault for not explaining the installation to them. The stock long is a flat piece of steel, with a waffled piece welded to it at the points where they touch. The add on is a flat piece of steel welded to the top of the waffle piece. It is like making corrugated cardboard. If you peel the top layer off corrugted cardboard, it is flexy. With the top layer on it, it is really stiff and still fairly light. When we finally get Betty's car done, it is getting a Brad Mauyer kit. After 400K, and lots of AX usage, poor old Frody is getting a bit flexy. I put the Brad Mauyer outer longs support on my V8 car a 74 from what I can see on the rotisserie a no rust car with perfect longs before. I did this for the extreme strength for body for 400-foot lbs. of torque. I do not want any twisting with the big power. I did more welding than Brad showed by drilling holes and welding extra on it in the field (center of the waffle raised areas). No bend perfect door gaps just the way it was when I got it from Greg at Camp914 Bob B |
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