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Joseph Mills |
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#1
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on a Sonoma diet now... ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,482 Joined: 29-December 02 From: Oklahoma City, OK Member No.: 39 ![]() |
After removing the four star bolts from the outer CV joint (at the wheel), I removed the axle with the circlip, cage and balls in place (which are all in good shape). However, the CV joint "hub" itself (with the two guide pins) has not budged from the "wheel hub flange".
With the inner CV joint (next to the transaxle), the hub is totally exposed and a few taps with a hammer and then careful prying with a screwdriver and the hub comes right off the "transaxle flange". But since the outer hub is located deep inside the suspension arm, it is difficult to get to. Any advice, tips, or tools that may help me break this thing loose? |
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LvSteveH |
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#2
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I put the Poor in Porsche ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,080 Joined: 22-April 03 From: Las Vegas, Nevada Member No.: 600 ![]() |
I wouldn't try heat, I think that's extreme, and James is right, sometimes the stubs do just slide out, in which case the bearing wouldn't be damaged, but if you have to whack the stub to get it out, then the bearings are dimpling the race, and that is of course a bad thing. It's such a pain in the butt to pull it all apart that I'd usen new bearings if I had to force the stub out.
Putting the stub back in is easy because you can chill it in the freezer or pull it in using the method described on Pelican without damage. I'd still go with the slide hammer bearing puller if you can find one. You could probably make something functional out of a dent pulling slide hammer if you needed to. |
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