Rear Mount Oil Cooler Planning, Ok, leaking oil again... |
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Rear Mount Oil Cooler Planning, Ok, leaking oil again... |
BeatNavy |
May 31 2020, 06:45 AM
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#1
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Certified Professional Scapegoat Group: Members Posts: 2,924 Joined: 26-February 14 From: Easton, MD Member No.: 17,042 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
With the addition of my 2270 I'm now pushing oil temps toward 230 on an 80 degree day. I am not surprised, but wanted to run it for a bit just to make sure an external oil cooler is truly necessary.
I think it is truly necessary. I've researched and planned this some, but I'm still looking for sanity check, comments, and answers where appropriate. You'll notice I'm trying to stick with Setrab for most of this under the assumption that the pieces should work together. 1. This will be rear-mount cooler: Setrab Series 1 19-row w/Fan. It looks compact, has the fan, and was recommended to me. It will be mounted somewhere under trunk / over gearbox, probably passenger side. 2. Sandwich plate adapter. I've considered going with CFR's system, but I'll probably stick with the sandwich plate route at this point. Which sandwich plate? I assume it needs to be low-profile to avoid interference with cross-bar, but these things run from $26 to over $200 depending, I guess, whether or not they have thermostat. I was thinking of going with this one: 3/4 x 16 1-inch Sandwich Plate 3. Oil line fittings. I guess I need 2 for the sandwich adapter plate and 2 for the cooler itself. From a planning standpoint should I assume straight, 45 or 90 degree angled, particularly for clearance purposes off the adapter? 4. Oil lines. Going with steel braided, and I was thinking about 10 feet of AN8. Any advantage/disadvantage to AN8 versus AN10?. I'm going to get the Koul Tool oil line tool to help fabricate these. 5. Thermostat fan switch - was planning on the Setrab 190 degree thermostat switch. 6. Then I guess I need to go fused or relay on the power. Need to research that a bit more. 7. Am I missing anything or any other gotchas before I start ordering stuff? As always, thanks for advice and help. Adding an external cooler obviously makes everything a bit more complex and crowded underneath. I guess I should have stuck with the original 1.7L I had years ago. NOT! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) |
BeatNavy |
Jun 18 2020, 02:35 PM
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#2
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Certified Professional Scapegoat Group: Members Posts: 2,924 Joined: 26-February 14 From: Easton, MD Member No.: 17,042 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
A bit of an update. I did get the Setrab oil cooler mounted up, the lines fabricated, and the wiring done.
I fabbed a metal shroud around the oil cooler similar to what @gereed75 did, and I have it attached to a basic heater hose to try to draw in cooler air away from the HE's. The shroud worked out pretty well. It's thin gauge zinc plated sheet and I held it together with sheet metal screws. It's attached via the mounting bracket. I also rolled up some of that steel and welded it into a male outlet for something to which the heater hose can attach. I then welded up some mounting brackets underneath the trunk to which the whole assembly is attached. It is amazing how compact this little oil cooler is. It's not much bigger than a man's hand. For the fan wiring I'm using a relay and a 30-amp inline fuse. The relay is grounded to the thermo switch on the outlet port of the cooler. So at 190 degrees it should start purring. You may notice in the pics that the outlet side with the thermo switch is a LITTLE close to the half shaft for my liking. Hopefully there's still plenty of clearance, but if not that could end badly (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I am terrible about taking pictures of something that's WIP, so I don't have a good shot with everything on the bench, but here are a couple of shots with it mounted up: I'm also not very good at wiring. I get electrical concepts, and I can usually wire up an electrical system that works well. I'm terrible at making it look clean and tidy, however. Now my rant: I've been at this point for about 5 days. I ordered an oil filter and a couple of gaskets from Pelican over two weeks ago. Apparently I used the cheapest shipping option (I thought I had plenty of time) which was "SmartPost." "SmartPost" is when FedEx gets it to your regional US Post Office distro center, and they "handle" it from there. Once FedEx hands it over to USPS, you tend to lose visibility of it. I can't get a confirmed delivery time, and it looks like it's bouncing back and forth between MD and VA right now. "SmartPost" is not so smart. You know that feeling when you just want to wrap up a repair or an improvement and try it out, but you're waiting on someone else.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) In the meantime, thanks for everyone's help, especially Joe ( @Porschef ) for help and encouragement (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) |
Olympic 914 |
Jun 18 2020, 04:14 PM
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#3
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Group: Members Posts: 1,673 Joined: 7-July 11 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 13,287 Region Association: North East States |
A bit of an update. I did get the Setrab oil cooler mounted up, the lines fabricated, and the wiring done. I fabbed a metal shroud around the oil cooler similar to what @gereed75 did, and I have it attached to a basic heater hose to try to draw in cooler air away from the HE's. The shroud worked out pretty well. It's thin gauge zinc plated sheet and I held it together with sheet metal screws. It's attached via the mounting bracket. I also rolled up some of that steel and welded it into a male outlet for something to which the heater hose can attach. I then welded up some mounting brackets underneath the trunk to which the whole assembly is attached. It is amazing how compact this little oil cooler is. It's not much bigger than a man's hand. For the fan wiring I'm using a relay and a 30-amp inline fuse. The relay is grounded to the thermo switch on the outlet port of the cooler. So at 190 degrees it should start purring. You may notice in the pics that the outlet side with the thermo switch is a LITTLE close to the half shaft for my liking. Hopefully there's still plenty of clearance, but if not that could end badly (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I am terrible about taking pictures of something that's WIP, so I don't have a good shot with everything on the bench, but here are a couple of shots with it mounted up: I'm also not very good at wiring. I get electrical concepts, and I can usually wire up an electrical system that works well. I'm terrible at making it look clean and tidy, however. Now my rant: I've been at this point for about 5 days. I ordered an oil filter and a couple of gaskets from Pelican over two weeks ago. Apparently I used the cheapest shipping option (I thought I had plenty of time) which was "SmartPost." "SmartPost" is when FedEx gets it to your regional US Post Office distro center, and they "handle" it from there. Once FedEx hands it over to USPS, you tend to lose visibility of it. I can't get a confirmed delivery time, and it looks like it's bouncing back and forth between MD and VA right now. "SmartPost" is not so smart. You know that feeling when you just want to wrap up a repair or an improvement and try it out, but you're waiting on someone else.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) In the meantime, thanks for everyone's help, especially Joe ( @Porschef ) for help and encouragement (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) That shield you have mounted on the bottom of the cooler is on the Exhaust side of the fan. You may be restricting the exhaust, it would just blow down on the HE's anyway. I don't think you have to worry about heat radiating up onto the fanpack from the HE's Like the hose ducting. Thought about doing something like Elliot had with a NACA duct in the rocker cover. |
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