Re-Conversion of a '70 914, Patching that Big V8 radiator cutout pt. 1 Options

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The engine is sold. I'll soon have a very fresh 901 w/ an "H" gear for sale as well as some other goodies soon for those planning an SBC conversion. I couldn't do much with this sitting in my garage as it already is stuffed to the max. Therefor I felt it somewhat necessary to sell this before commencing with the re-conversion. I've been silently (yeh, I know; me silent) working in the background for a few months fabricating some items that will be needed. I'll do my best to document things a bit more accurately than the previous conversion. Once again I'll be using the Subaru 6 and Subaru transmission. I've had tremendous success with this platform so I might as well repeat myself. So sit back, bear with me and watch as I stumble along and occasionally embarrass myself. Mistakes are an integral part of my journey. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

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Now it's time to take this cross member tube and cut it to length.



The ends will be drilled with an 1.5" arbor bit at a 110 degree (or 70 degree) angle depending upon which side you're measuring the angle. The end to end measurement taken on the edge of the holes on shortest side will be 30". I suggest you make it a little longer and trim to the final length once you're certain the 30" length will work for you. I'll explain further. Once both ends of the cross member are drilled one side is longer than the other since we are not drilling perpendicular to the pipe. I was distracted by "someone" when I started drilling and measured 30" from the edge of the hole on the long side and screwed that piece up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) So, it was a few days before I could get back up to Aircraft Spruce for a 3' piece to correct my boo-boo. Notice that small C clamp on one end. That was ground flat on one side so I could lay my level upon it. Once the first hole is drilled out the cross member is flipped end to end and re-inserted in the tube notcher and checked for level on the C clamp before tightening the tube down in the tube notcher. The C clamp will be on top during both operations. This keeps the drilled ends parallel to one another.








Before going any further I should explain where I got the 30" short edge to short edge dimension. I like to keep the axles centered with the output flanges on the transmission. To achieve this I need to have the center of the cross member 14" from the rear edge of the steel spacer. Just lay your rule on top of the tube and measure back 14". Then roughly draw an 1.5" circle on each side 14" from the center to the edge of the spacer. This will give you reference point for fitting the cross member.If you want your engine to sit closer to the firewall then you will need to adjust this dimension accordingly. Do not place the crossmember further towards the rear unless you want cut up your trunk floor.









Once you're satisfied with the length you'll want to square it up before welding it in place. I used a string that was strung from the brake calipers. Once the string is taunt measure from the firewall back to either end. Those measurements should be equal; unless the car has some previous shoddy bodywork or Hans had a few beers at lunch. Now check the angle between the string and runners. That should be 110 or 70 degrees depending upon which side of the string you measure. Once secure tack weld both sides, double check your measurements then complete as much of the welds joints as you can.