Best method to check your clutch cable tube, should it move @ all with pedal depressed? Options

[porschetub]

As I have my g/box popping out of 4th gear I'am lost for a reason as everything has been done externally,Tangerine bulkhead bush, x 2 shift rod uni-joints and double oilite console bushes.
Shifts all other gears fine and down changes fine however have issues with a new cable that has needed constant adjustment since fitted it after a short time so thinking now the tube is moving in the tunnel due to the mounts breaking further.
Thanks to a fellow NZ member on here I have got the contact for the leading guy in my country that works on these transmissions but TBO don't want to send it to him for assessment if its not an internal problem and can least afford to do that.
Will add that I have new clutch with clutch throw out arm rebushed and new mounts but when last checked I noticed the tube was moving a little with pedal depressed.
TIA.

[ClayPerrine]

Shortly after Betty and I started dating (in 1985!), the clutch tube came loose in the tunnel of her car. There was no internet, no 914World, and the only reference we had was the AutoAtlanta catalog. Plus we had no money, no welding skills and the only welder we had access to was a ARC stick welder. So we went to the hardware store and bought a U-Bolt. We took out the shifter, drilled holes on either side of the clutch tube and put in the U-Bolt. That anchored the clutch tube and fixed the issue.

The U-bolt was still there when I got hit. I never took time enough to fix it. We were going on the premise of "It's not broken, so why fix it?" on that particular item. But it is getting fixed while the car is in the body shop.

Not saying it is the right way to fix it, but ..... Sometimes simple works.

Clay

[porschetub]

Shortly after Betty and I started dating (in 1985!), the clutch tube came loose in the tunnel of her car. There was no internet, no 914World, and the only reference we had was the AutoAtlanta catalog. Plus we had no money, no welding skills and the only welder we had access to was a ARC stick welder. So we went to the hardware store and bought a U-Bolt. We took out the shifter, drilled holes on either side of the clutch tube and put in the U-Bolt. That anchored the clutch tube and fixed the issue.

The U-bolt was still there when I got hit. I never took time enough to fix it. We were going on the premise of "It's not broken, so why fix it?" on that particular item. But it is getting fixed while the car is in the body shop.

Not saying it is the right way to fix it, but ..... Sometimes simple works.

Clay

Thanks,thinking maybe I have a full or partial breakage of the rear support,will be pulling the cable today and can inspect the bulkhead area,may amount to little but I can easily beef it up as far back as I can go to the rear.
More progress ,did all checks and can find no breakage of the tube mounts or in the bulkhead passing, checked seat belt bolts and no conflict with the shifter rod or movement of the tube on the RH side.
I fitted the original Porsche cable and noted the Cofle replacement had no nylon liner in the conduit from bulkhead to clutch roller mount (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) .
Cheap cable equals sh#t cable I guess ?,maybe why the genuine cable is 4+ times more expensive,easy to see where this is heading,clutch is much lighter,easier to adjust and much smoother,really didn't feel great before.
Was pissed off to see the wear on the clevis pin after I welded the worn lever arm and redrilled,another aftermarket item part which is too softer steel for this application.
More to follow as I need to short rear shifter rod as I found out one uni-joint is not locking tight on the rod....can see some "light @ the end of the tunnel" ,maybe a fix or not but atleast I would have cover all bases.