914-6 Conversion Shift Linkage Question, (Firewall Back) |
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914-6 Conversion Shift Linkage Question, (Firewall Back) |
RichPugh |
May 10 2020, 04:29 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 129 Joined: 28-October 14 From: Baltimore, MD Member No.: 18,068 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
So... the engine is in (I’m using the NaroEscape -6 front mount) and, seeming because of the mount, it sits lower than stock. The Patrick Motorsport -6 shift linkage rod I intended on using, wont work. It interferes with the engine case and doesn’t seem to have a workaround. If the engine were 1/4” - 1/2” higher at the firewall, it looks like it would slip in, but alas, the engine is not going anywhere, lol.
I’m tempted to just bend the PMS bar end upward (maybe a couple inches from where it goes from the narrow shank to the bar rod) to give it the clearance but that would change the angle it goes into the rear bushing and connects to the shift lever... so I figured I’d ask if anyone else had an issue with the bar hitting the engine case and any options I might have. I’m OK with modding the old -4 rod too. Might be worth a shot but figured I’d ask here first. The other threads I found look like the stock rod modded is the move. Thanks Rich |
Mark Henry |
Sep 25 2020, 10:09 AM
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#2
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
I made my own RJ copy mount*, I mounted the bulkhead mount to the motor, then I raised the engine and trans into position and bolted up the rear trans mounts. I got the engine raised up to where I wanted it to sit and I tack welded the mount in place. I put in enough tack welds to hold the weight of the engine, took out the jack and confirmed that it was sitting correct with full weight.
In lining up my home made bulkhead mount I found several areas I had to mod and/or clearance before I tacked it in. I got it right first time but I could have easily cut out the tack welds and reposition it if needed. Only when I was totally happy and tacked in did I remove the engine/trans and fully weld in the mount. * Special thanks to @peteyd at RD for laser cutting the parts for the mount. |
mb911 |
Sep 25 2020, 10:14 AM
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#3
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,871 Joined: 2-January 09 From: Burlington wi Member No.: 9,892 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I made my own RJ copy mount, I mounted the bulkhead mount to the motor, then I raised the engine and trans into position and bolted up the rear trans mounts. I got the engine raised up to where I wanted it to sit and I tack welded the mount in place. I put in enough tack welds to hold the weight of the engine, took out the jack and confirmed that it was sitting correct with full weight. In lining up my home made bulkhead mount I found several areas I had to mod and/or clearance before I tacked it in. I got it right first time but I could have easily cut out the tack welds and reposition it if needed. Only when I was totally happy and tacked in did I remove the engine/trans and fully weld in the mount. That is what I did with my 1st conversion.. This time I made a factory copy and used the mad dog engine side and used factory measurements.. Was spot on and works perfectly. |
Mark Henry |
Sep 25 2020, 10:21 AM
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#4
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
That is what I did with my 1st conversion.. This time I made a factory copy and used the mad dog engine side and used factory measurements.. Was spot on and works perfectly. Not mounting the bar to the engine and then mounting the engine with transmission and bolting up the rear mounts is the OP's big mistake. This step must be done every time...I don't give a flying fuchs who made the mount. |
RichPugh |
Sep 25 2020, 06:32 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 129 Joined: 28-October 14 From: Baltimore, MD Member No.: 18,068 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
QUOTE Not mounting the bar to the engine and then mounting the engine with transmission and bolting up the rear mounts is the OP's big mistake. This step must be done every time...I don't give a flying fuchs who made the mount. Lesson learned. Listening to the manufacturers installation rules/guidelines/instructions was my mistake. It simply DOES NOT position the engine in a good place (for my goals, at least)... so... I can do what you suggested, re-welding the mounts to the firewall in a higher, more ideal position but it doesnt fix the situation with the engine being about 1/2" too far forward closer to the firewall. The firewall kinda pitches backwards slightly so it might move it back marginally. I will either: 1. Drop the engine, re-engineer the crossbar/cradle portion of the Naro mount to position the engine UP 3/4" and further rearward about 1/2"... Decent work but massive improvement. 2. Re-weld the firewall mounts up 3/4" UP and deal with the forward positioning... not ideal but better. 3. Leave it just as it is and just mod a shift rod bar to work... probably what I'll do in the interim. |
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