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JamesJ |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 239 Joined: 30-April 20 From: Sunnyvale, CA Member No.: 24,202 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
Hello All,
I am researching a rear coilover setup for my car. I don't plan to do any auto crossing, but would like a nice canyon carver. From previous threads on this site, it seems that 140/150 lb. rear spring would be good as well as removing my rear sway bar, installing a larger front sway bar(perhaps one or two sizes up from stock), and keeping my stock torsion bar. I currently have Koni sport shocks all around. It appears that my left rear shock is leaking, so I am thinking to go ahead and get two new rear shocks. If I get Bilsteins for the rear, should I change out my front shocks to match? Do you prefer Koni adjustable or Bilsteins? Is the damping control of the Koni necessary for a street car? Any experience with the different coilover setups from Ground Control, Elephant Racing, or Tarett Engineering? For springs, do you prefer Eibach or Swift or another brand? I am not sure why, but Elephant Racing uses a 2.5” rear spring, while Tarett Engineering uses a 2.25” rear spring-both are Eibachs. I don't think I will need a helper spring for street use. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you. |
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Superhawk996 |
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#2
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,254 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() ![]() |
Not trying to be a jackass but I was trying to get at was what is OP trying to achieve? Sounds like handling is the primary goal but how much ride and NVH is he willing go give up. Clearly stated autocrossing wasn't the goal so there is no point in chasing all out AX or racing setup that totally compromises ride quality. Sounded like the proposal is drastically increasing spring rates on front and/or rear. Stiffer is not always better especially on canyon roads where road bumps, potholes, and loose gravel have to be dealt with.
Trying to answer his hardware questions without understanding the goal is folly. Will likely result in spending a bunch of money and may make the car worse. At a bare minimum the question is; does OP think the current setup understeers, or oversteers? A second decent question is whether OP thinks the car has too much body roll? And, as comparded to what; a F1 car or 70's Chevy Caprice Classic? Followed closely by what roll metric; absolute body angle or the velocity of the body roll and how it affects transient handling. Chasing parts swaps blindly and/or following the "secret" recipie of others may not get OP to what he wants. |
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