2.0 or more, Bigger is better Options

[930cabman]

I cut my wrenching teeth on VW bugs and Type 3's back in the '70's and '80's. Been somewhat out of the game for several years looking to rejoin into the 914 world. Generally the easiest way for more kick is to increase displacement. Short of going to turbo's what is available as far as big bore kits. I am not interested in going the 6 cylinder route or chevy small block route. The car will be street only, but I need speed.

[VaccaRabite]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
you need to brace the doors or you WILL twist the chassis while welding. There are lots of threads with that information in it. But for the most part people ar building stout rods with a turnbuckle in the middle you you can dial in the right amount of load to keep the car square.

Since these cars don't have a roof to add structure welding done along the longs will put a twist in the car. And you won't notice it until the very end when you are trying to re-hang the doors and the gaps refuse to line up, or worse the door refuses to close.

Zach

[930cabman]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
you need to brace the doors or you WILL twist the chassis while welding. There are lots of threads with that information in it. But for the most part people ar building stout rods with a turnbuckle in the middle you you can dial in the right amount of load to keep the car square.

Since these cars don't have a roof to add structure welding done along the longs will put a twist in the car. And you won't notice it until the very end when you are trying to re-hang the doors and the gaps refuse to line up, or worse the door refuses to close.

Zach

Zach,

Thank you, the reinforcing braces are at the top of my list. Back in the '80's I put a '69 Ghia back together and did not align the body at all. The car drove well for many years afterwards, but always had bad door gaps. I am considering utilizing a system that would allow test fitting the doors as progress moves along. Not sure of the method. I am considering a few spreaders at the targa area with nylon binders to hold everything together. Theoretically this would maintain the 25 1/8" number between the windshield header and the targa bar.

[VaccaRabite]

Zach,

Thank you, the reinforcing braces are at the top of my list. Back in the '80's I put a '69 Ghia back together and did not align the body at all. The car drove well for many years afterwards, but always had bad door gaps. I am considering utilizing a system that would allow test fitting the doors as progress moves along. Not sure of the method. I am considering a few spreaders at the targa area with nylon binders to hold everything together. Theoretically this would maintain the 25 1/8" number between the windshield header and the targa bar.

Don't try and bolt anything to the top of the windshield frame. Its not structural and will just bend as the car twists.

Door latch to upper door hinge, and another from the top hinge to the base of the door sill. When I say hinge, I mean make a plate that bolts into the 3 captive nuts at the top of the hinge. Again, do a search or look in the Classics section. Pics make this easier then trying to describe it.

Zach

[930cabman]

Zach,

Thank you, the reinforcing braces are at the top of my list. Back in the '80's I put a '69 Ghia back together and did not align the body at all. The car drove well for many years afterwards, but always had bad door gaps. I am considering utilizing a system that would allow test fitting the doors as progress moves along. Not sure of the method. I am considering a few spreaders at the targa area with nylon binders to hold everything together. Theoretically this would maintain the 25 1/8" number between the windshield header and the targa bar.

Don't try and bolt anything to the top of the windshield frame. Its not structural and will just bend as the car twists.

Door latch to upper door hinge, and another from the top hinge to the base of the door sill. When I say hinge, I mean make a plate that bolts into the 3 captive nuts at the top of the hinge. Again, do a search or look in the Classics section. Pics make this easier then trying to describe it.

Zach

Thanks for the heads up, I was hoping to have an easy way to test fit the doors as we go without removing the temporary braces.

[Superhawk996]

Thanks for the heads up, I was hoping to have an easy way to test fit the doors as we go without removing the temporary braces.

I don't want to toot my own horn because others have done this before I did - I didn't invent this solution.

But, since I'm lazy . . . check my build thread in my signature. 1st page post #4.

My door braces don't interfere with the doors and I've done all welding with doors in place rather than try to count on measurements and trial fittings.

[bbrock]

Thanks for the heads up, I was hoping to have an easy way to test fit the doors as we go without removing the temporary braces.

I don't want to toot my own horn because others have done this before I did - I didn't invent this solution.

But, since I'm lazy . . . check my build thread in my signature. 1st page post #4.

My door braces don't interfere with the doors and I've done all welding with doors in place rather than try to count on measurements and trial fittings.

Yeah, I did it too and highly recommend it. Use the upper bolt sockets for the seat belts and weld a big nut to front of the inner long near the speaker boxes. Run your adjustable brace between then ad you'll be able to install doors with the braces on.

[930cabman]

Thanks for the heads up, I was hoping to have an easy way to test fit the doors as we go without removing the temporary braces.

I don't want to toot my own horn because others have done this before I did - I didn't invent this solution.

But, since I'm lazy . . . check my build thread in my signature. 1st page post #4.

My door braces don't interfere with the doors and I've done all welding with doors in place rather than try to count on measurements and trial fittings.

Yeah, I did it too and highly recommend it. Use the upper bolt sockets for the seat belts and weld a big nut to front of the inner long near the speaker boxes. Run your adjustable brace between then ad you'll be able to install doors with the braces on.

Hawk, Brent,

Thanks, I have seen these in a few of the threads I have researched, just wasn't sure of the connections at the door hinge end. Can I assume it's a unanimous NO with bracing from the windshield frame?

[Superhawk996]

Can I assume it's a unanimous NO with bracing from the windshield frame?

IMHO -- No. There is no structure in the A-pillar / windshield frame. Not at all like a modern car that has to meet roll over impact standards that lead to robust A-pillars. If you look at modern cars - roll over regs are a main reason why the A-pillars have become so wide that they have become a blind spot unto themselves. It takes a lot of structure to support a modern 3500- 6000 lb vehicle upside down! Hmm . . . wasn't weight the subject of another thread . . . but I digress.

The 914's targa bar is the structural element meant to keep you from having the car crush you in a rollover.

It was actually pretty advanced for it's time. Many convertibles of that era would simply roll over and crush the occupants.