My new to me barn find!, New 914 Options

[Google_Bhrome]

Hey guys! I recently picked up this new to me 914 barn find for 500$. I believe it’s a 1974 model and I’m not sure what engine. Looks to have 35k miles on it. Everything’s there but seems to be in rough shape but I’m excited to start working on it. The hell hole has a rust hole in it, but besides that, being in Arizona there isn’t any other rust anywhere!

Anyone know what type of engine it is? Got a brand new carburetor to go with it but gotta find a Haynes manual haha. I believe the wheels are 15’ and would you think I would be able to mount 195/55/15 on them? The original tires are dry rotted.

Big pickup or big mistake? Would love to hear your opinion!

Here are some pictures.
Pictures

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[jasons]

Probably not a mistake if you are up for the work ahead which there is more than you think. There just always is.

These are my assumptions based on those pics... The odometer is more than likely rolled over. There is way too much mismatch there for it to be 35k. I see silver inside the doors, 2 colors on the rear decklid, FI has been removed and some single carb added then removed. Aftermarket parts like square fogs and baby Tornado mirrors. The engine is probably not a 2.0 because the engine tin looks Porsche 1.7/1.8 or VW Bus. You need to pull the rockers and see how much dirt was trapped in there. The other place I would look for rust is the passenger firewall. The firewall pad traps moisture. These are 2 spots rust hides even on "rust free" cars.

It could be an original 2.0 car. It has the wheels and correct center caps. I don't think those center caps fit on Fuchs copies. It also has a 2.0 center console. Some things you can look for... The paint code in the front part of the driver door jamb. There may be a sticker in the engine compartment driver side that has the engine spec. Sometimes they are still there, a lot of times they are gone. Look underneath for factory sway bars.

All in all for $500, there is way more good than bad. But I see a full restoration no matter how good that chassis is.

[Google_Bhrome]

Probably not a mistake if you are up for the work ahead which there is more than you think. There just always is.

These are my assumptions based on those pics... The odometer is more than likely rolled over. There is way too much mismatch there for it to be 35k. I see silver inside the doors, 2 colors on the rear decklid, FI has been removed and some single carb added then removed. Aftermarket parts like square fogs and baby Tornado mirrors. The engine is probably not a 2.0 because the engine tin looks Porsche 1.7/1.8 or VW Bus. You need to pull the rockers and see how much dirt was trapped in there. The other place I would look for rust is the passenger firewall. The firewall pad traps moisture. These are 2 spots rust hides even on "rust free" cars.

It could be an original 2.0 car. It has the wheels and correct center caps. I don't think those center caps fit on Fuchs copies. It also has a 2.0 center console. Some things you can look for... The paint code in the front part of the driver door jamb. There may be a sticker in the engine compartment driver side that has the engine spec. Sometimes they are still there, a lot of times they are gone. Look underneath for factory sway bars.

All in all for $500, there is way more good than bad. But I see a full restoration no matter how good that chassis is.

Why would they remove fuel injection over carbs? I definitely gotta do some inspection on the engine. The driver door jamb card seems to have been removed, would there be any other place for a paint code?

[jasons]

Why would they remove fuel injection over carbs? I definitely gotta do some inspection on the engine. The driver door jamb card seems to have been removed, would there be any other place for a paint code?

Well in the period when these were "poor mans Porsches", a lot of mechanics and DIY'ers didn't know how or want to spend the time trying to fix the fuel injection. Cheap solution was to throw a carb on there. Those single carb kits are frowned upon probably for a variety of reasons. Also, just throwing a carb on an FI car is a problem because the engine is cammed for the FI. The FI, when sorted out, works really good. If you rebuild the motor putting duel carbs on is a reasonable option assuming you build the motor to be carbureted.

This is a paint code tag, pulled off google randomly... It's between the door hinge and the door strap. I would be surprised if it wasn't there.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/forums.pelicanparts.com-2573-1619197719.1.jpg)

[SirAndy]

This is a paint code tag, pulled off google randomly... It's between the door hinge and the door strap. I would be surprised if it wasn't there.

Slightly better angle

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-179-1217494641.jpg)