2056 build advice requested from those that have been there, June 23 update: original heads rebuilt and will be reinstalled with 96's, will save up for the full upgraded LN Options

[DRPHIL914]

Ok the short story is my motor is out of the car due to lost compression on #3, found loose intake valve seat no damage no injury to lower end. I have been researching head replacement options and rebuild options, but considering rebuilt head could cost close to $1500, and new basic spec heads are close to $2000 or more, although some new castings from AA , Mark Henry and others are doing rebuilds on those , and tis a great option with out breaking the bank, i find myself looking more at the LN RS+, which is the cream of the crop heads for our motors, and i am 90% sure i will be committing to this purchase , i have the opportunity to get set , SO with that said i would be foolish to not consider upgrading the P&C's too.

the LN heads have the larger valves and are ported polished etc , so i think a 2056 is where i want to go because i can do that build by getting new 96's and not have to to into the lower case and change the cam etc. yes i may do that some day but for now i cant afford that, so i am getting these heads and new 96 P&C's
that way i can use the d-jet tuned for the 2056 but go with upgraded FI soon as i can afford it.
first questions that need to be answered is,
1. do i need to change out my push rods? - this should not change the deck height. I could stay 1911 and just add the heads but while it is hear and new P&C are not that expensive, i am not doing Nikki's cant afford that, but 94 and 96's are same and icould have my cylinders sent to them for hone and bored then coating, or just get new-
so what hgave you all done , has anyone done this, leave the stock cam in place and build the 2056 with the new heads and cylinders?/

the also what else do i need?

Thanks for the advice

Phil
-
also suggestions on the FI issue as well. what kind of expense am i looking at for a upgraded system?

Phil
- i have a 123ignition distributor so i can continue to use it or change but it works great alone or with d-jet.

[rfinegan]

Changing the push rods to Chrome moly has advantages too.
1) You can run ZERO valve lash
2) EZ to adjust
3) Quieter valve train
4) I little more performance with tighter lash (more lift)
5) Optimize Valve Geometry Gross lift and 1/2 lift Reduces were and tear to components

Deck heights can change:
1) Different Cylinders (even with same stroke) brand to brand and even between cylinders for some brands
2) Shimming Registers for desired Compression ratio
3) Heads ( fly cutting heads to squared clean mating or reduce head volume) will changes the required deck height and CR
5) With or without head gaskets ( I did without)

FOR ME: The only way to tell for sure if you need Push Rods is to calculate the geometry when mocking up the components with an adjustable push rod. Then decide what length pushrods are needed and if stock pushrods will do

AS for Heads
We all have our views of what we like and the configurations

With the stock cam 2056 its hard to beat the STOCK 3 bolt intake Porsche fuel injected 2.0L heads

Bigger valves and port work may see fewer returns if a new cam is not selected and reduce port velocity for good street use. Jake did a recommend 2056 build sheet HERE
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...83920&st=20

I not trying to change your decisions or choices. You have a good plan. Just getting you some addition info to let you know what people are doing out there