2056 build advice requested from those that have been there, June 23 update: original heads rebuilt and will be reinstalled with 96's, will save up for the full upgraded LN Options

[DRPHIL914]

Ok the short story is my motor is out of the car due to lost compression on #3, found loose intake valve seat no damage no injury to lower end. I have been researching head replacement options and rebuild options, but considering rebuilt head could cost close to $1500, and new basic spec heads are close to $2000 or more, although some new castings from AA , Mark Henry and others are doing rebuilds on those , and tis a great option with out breaking the bank, i find myself looking more at the LN RS+, which is the cream of the crop heads for our motors, and i am 90% sure i will be committing to this purchase , i have the opportunity to get set , SO with that said i would be foolish to not consider upgrading the P&C's too.

the LN heads have the larger valves and are ported polished etc , so i think a 2056 is where i want to go because i can do that build by getting new 96's and not have to to into the lower case and change the cam etc. yes i may do that some day but for now i cant afford that, so i am getting these heads and new 96 P&C's
that way i can use the d-jet tuned for the 2056 but go with upgraded FI soon as i can afford it.
first questions that need to be answered is,
1. do i need to change out my push rods? - this should not change the deck height. I could stay 1911 and just add the heads but while it is hear and new P&C are not that expensive, i am not doing Nikki's cant afford that, but 94 and 96's are same and icould have my cylinders sent to them for hone and bored then coating, or just get new-
so what hgave you all done , has anyone done this, leave the stock cam in place and build the 2056 with the new heads and cylinders?/

the also what else do i need?

Thanks for the advice

Phil
-
also suggestions on the FI issue as well. what kind of expense am i looking at for a upgraded system?

Phil
- i have a 123ignition distributor so i can continue to use it or change but it works great alone or with d-jet.

[JamesM]

So, my opinion(s)...

I think you are going to be leaving a lot of power on the table and/or creating a lot of work for yourself by not committing fully to a direction up front. If you are planning on going aftermarket injection in the future make that decision now and build accordingly. Staying with a d-jet cam really limits what you could otherwise do, and going back to change the cam out later is a LOT of work, you are basically building 2 motors.

BUT

Unless you are dumping money on someone to do it for you or are very knowledgeable/capable yourself aftermarket injection can be a LOT of work/steep learning curve and to stack that on top of a freshly built motor may be more of a headache than most want to get into.

SO

Either commit to d-jet or commit to aftermarket injection.

If you commit to d-jet then its 96mm P&Cs + heads + tweaking the d-jet. I personally wouldn't go that route though. At this point I see d-jet as a potential liability on a new motor and having to tweak it to make it compatible with a 2056 just elevates that complexity/liability while leaving a lot of power on the table.


If I were in your shoes, and accepting cost as a factor, this is the approach I would probably take:

1. Find someone dumping a running turnkey 1.7 or 1.8 motor and pick that up on the cheap (because 1.7/1.8s tend to be cheap due to people upgrading)
2. Build an aftermarket injection system on top of the 1.7/1.8 motor. This will give you a chance to tackle the learning curve of aftermarket injection and tuning on a known good/ already broken in/low cost motor. When you are done you will have both a drivable car and a sorted injection system that will transfer over to whatever motor you ultimately want to build. And TBH, I would take a fully dialed in megasquirted 1.7/1.8 over a carbed or poorly tuned d-jet 2.0 anyday.
and then longer term...
3. Build a good 2056 (or even larger) with upgraded cam/compression/heads the way you ultimately want to, not being limited by a d-jet cam, using your existing motor.

Bottom line, figure out the fueling first. You will minimize downtime, save yourself time/money in the long run, and ultimately wind up with a better performing result in the end. Cost for the aftermarket injection can vary wildly depending on how much you want to do yourself vs pay someone else and how much of it you want to be with brand new parts. Realistically could be anywhere from $500-$3000. My current preferred way to build them comes in around ~$1200 in parts but thats getting brand new modern injectors/wideband o2 and a few other nice bits as well.

So maybe $500 for a known running short stroke motor and $1200 for injection bits to get you back on the road and ahead of the game to take whatever motor you want to build without limits.

[Mark Henry]

So, my opinion(s)...

I think you are going to be leaving a lot of power on the table and/or creating a lot of work for yourself by not committing fully to a direction up front. If you are planning on going aftermarket injection in the future make that decision now and build accordingly. Staying with a d-jet cam really limits what you could otherwise do, and going back to change the cam out later is a LOT of work, you are basically building 2 motors.

BUT

Unless you are dumping money on someone to do it for you or are very knowledgeable/capable yourself aftermarket injection can be a LOT of work/steep learning curve and to stack that on top of a freshly built motor may be more of a headache than most want to get into.

SO

Either commit to d-jet or commit to aftermarket injection.

If you commit to d-jet then its 96mm P&Cs + heads + tweaking the d-jet. I personally wouldn't go that route though. At this point I see d-jet as a potential liability on a new motor and having to tweak it to make it compatible with a 2056 just elevates that complexity/liability while leaving a lot of power on the table.


If I were in your shoes, and accepting cost as a factor, this is the approach I would probably take:

1. Find someone dumping a running turnkey 1.7 or 1.8 motor and pick that up on the cheap (because 1.7/1.8s tend to be cheap due to people upgrading)
2. Build an aftermarket injection system on top of the 1.7/1.8 motor. This will give you a chance to tackle the learning curve of aftermarket injection and tuning on a known good/ already broken in/low cost motor. When you are done you will have both a drivable car and a sorted injection system that will transfer over to whatever motor you ultimately want to build. And TBH, I would take a fully dialed in megasquirted 1.7/1.8 over a carbed or poorly tuned d-jet 2.0 anyday.
and then longer term...
3. Build a good 2056 (or even larger) with upgraded cam/compression/heads the way you ultimately want to, not being limited by a d-jet cam, using your existing motor.

Bottom line, figure out the fueling first. You will minimize downtime, save yourself time/money in the long run, and ultimately wind up with a better performing result in the end. Cost for the aftermarket injection can vary wildly depending on how much you want to do yourself vs pay someone else and how much of it you want to be with brand new parts. Realistically could be anywhere from $500-$3000. My current preferred way to build them comes in around ~$1200 in parts but thats getting brand new modern injectors/wideband o2 and a few other nice bits as well.

So maybe $500 for a known running short stroke motor and $1200 for injection bits to get you back on the road and ahead of the game to take whatever motor you want to build without limits.

Or just run a cheap pair of Weber's till you can afford the FI.

I broke in my 2600cc 78mm stroke 102mm JE/nickies engine on SDS EFI, never worried a bit about the FI or AFR.