2056 build advice requested from those that have been there, June 23 update: original heads rebuilt and will be reinstalled with 96's, will save up for the full upgraded LN Options

[DRPHIL914]

Ok the short story is my motor is out of the car due to lost compression on #3, found loose intake valve seat no damage no injury to lower end. I have been researching head replacement options and rebuild options, but considering rebuilt head could cost close to $1500, and new basic spec heads are close to $2000 or more, although some new castings from AA , Mark Henry and others are doing rebuilds on those , and tis a great option with out breaking the bank, i find myself looking more at the LN RS+, which is the cream of the crop heads for our motors, and i am 90% sure i will be committing to this purchase , i have the opportunity to get set , SO with that said i would be foolish to not consider upgrading the P&C's too.

the LN heads have the larger valves and are ported polished etc , so i think a 2056 is where i want to go because i can do that build by getting new 96's and not have to to into the lower case and change the cam etc. yes i may do that some day but for now i cant afford that, so i am getting these heads and new 96 P&C's
that way i can use the d-jet tuned for the 2056 but go with upgraded FI soon as i can afford it.
first questions that need to be answered is,
1. do i need to change out my push rods? - this should not change the deck height. I could stay 1911 and just add the heads but while it is hear and new P&C are not that expensive, i am not doing Nikki's cant afford that, but 94 and 96's are same and icould have my cylinders sent to them for hone and bored then coating, or just get new-
so what hgave you all done , has anyone done this, leave the stock cam in place and build the 2056 with the new heads and cylinders?/

the also what else do i need?

Thanks for the advice

Phil
-
also suggestions on the FI issue as well. what kind of expense am i looking at for a upgraded system?

Phil
- i have a 123ignition distributor so i can continue to use it or change but it works great alone or with d-jet.

[colingreene]

What kind of fuel injection are you planning.
If its fuel injection with dual carb style throttles I would do what mark recommended and run it on carbs till you can do that.
That way you can put a more aggressive cam in it that will make you some more power without having to handicap it for the factory fuel injection.

I have a Web 86A I think. and its extremely drivable and runs out to about 5500. It will rev to 6 but really its not doing you a ton of good.

[Mark Henry]

What kind of fuel injection are you planning.
If its fuel injection with dual carb style throttles I would do what mark recommended and run it on carbs till you can do that.
That way you can put a more aggressive cam in it that will make you some more power without having to handicap it for the factory fuel injection.

I have a Web 86A I think. and its extremely drivable and runs out to about 5500. It will rev to 6 but really its not doing you a ton of good.

Depends on the exhaust, with SSI's for heat I'd keep it the stock plenum. I'd play around with a bigger TB, might even custom build a new center section but I'd keep it single TB.
A mild cam like the 86a is still OK with the above and the aftermarket EFI, but anything bigger than say a mild SCAT C-25 will need upgraded valve train.

To run ITB's you really need a header, cam, heads, valve train, etc.

[DRPHIL914]

What kind of fuel injection are you planning.
If its fuel injection with dual carb style throttles I would do what mark recommended and run it on carbs till you can do that.
That way you can put a more aggressive cam in it that will make you some more power without having to handicap it for the factory fuel injection.

I have a Web 86A I think. and its extremely drivable and runs out to about 5500. It will rev to 6 but really its not doing you a ton of good.

Depends on the exhaust, with SSI's for heat I'd keep it the stock plenum. I'd play around with a bigger TB, might even custom build a new center section but I'd keep it single TB.
A mild cam like the 86a is still OK with the above and the aftermarket EFI, but anything bigger than say a mild SCAT C-25 will need upgraded valve train.

To run ITB's you really need a header, cam, heads, valve train, etc.

i have SS HE and one of Ben's SS muffer with center twin out tips. I have thought about using the slightly larger throttle body, keeping it otherwise stock single TB intake, some guys here have used that van/bus TB so that might work to add just a bit more air in. With a new heads with new valves and springs etc like the LN RS heads, that would go really nice together. FI wise i have a couple choices but something like what PMB is putting together would be an option too, it can keep a lot of the stock looking stuff but gets rid of the MPS, and old brain, new sensors etc.
will see but i can use a tuned d-jet stock stuff for now, as i have decided for sure i am doing the 2056.

[mepstein]

What kind of fuel injection are you planning.
If its fuel injection with dual carb style throttles I would do what mark recommended and run it on carbs till you can do that.
That way you can put a more aggressive cam in it that will make you some more power without having to handicap it for the factory fuel injection.

I have a Web 86A I think. and its extremely drivable and runs out to about 5500. It will rev to 6 but really its not doing you a ton of good.

Depends on the exhaust, with SSI's for heat I'd keep it the stock plenum. I'd play around with a bigger TB, might even custom build a new center section but I'd keep it single TB.
A mild cam like the 86a is still OK with the above and the aftermarket EFI, but anything bigger than say a mild SCAT C-25 will need upgraded valve train.

To run ITB's you really need a header, cam, heads, valve train, etc.

i have SS HE and one of Ben's SS muffer with center twin out tips. I have thought about using the slightly larger throttle body, keeping it otherwise stock single TB intake, some guys here have used that van/bus TB so that might work to add just a bit more air in. With a new heads with new valves and springs, if i do ported gfgggg

I would get you engine back to running as inexpensively as possible and while you are able to drive it, start planning the parts for your engine rebuild. Maybe even buy another core engine or case to build the performance engine.

[DRPHIL914]

What kind of fuel injection are you planning.
If its fuel injection with dual carb style throttles I would do what mark recommended and run it on carbs till you can do that.
That way you can put a more aggressive cam in it that will make you some more power without having to handicap it for the factory fuel injection.

I have a Web 86A I think. and its extremely drivable and runs out to about 5500. It will rev to 6 but really its not doing you a ton of good.

Depends on the exhaust, with SSI's for heat I'd keep it the stock plenum. I'd play around with a bigger TB, might even custom build a new center section but I'd keep it single TB.
A mild cam like the 86a is still OK with the above and the aftermarket EFI, but anything bigger than say a mild SCAT C-25 will need upgraded valve train.

To run ITB's you really need a header, cam, heads, valve train, etc.

i have SS HE and one of Ben's SS muffer with center twin out tips. I have thought about using the slightly larger throttle body, keeping it otherwise stock single TB intake, some guys here have used that van/bus TB so that might work to add just a bit more air in. With a new heads with new valves and springs, if i do ported gfgggg

I would get you engine back to running as inexpensively as possible and while you are able to drive it, start planning the parts for your engine rebuild. Maybe even buy another core engine or case to build the performance engine.

i know thats good advice but in order to get it running i have to have new heads, so it opens up the pandoras box of well if i am going to spend $1800-$2000 on basically stock heads might as well spend just a bit more for much better that you dont have to replace on the next level of build. BUT yes its tempting ot just have my heads fixed wit new seats and bold them back on.... but thats not going to be less than about $1000 or so to have them machined, new seats installed and get some new stock valves and springs and put them back on. - Cheapest way to go though.