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DRPHIL914 |
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Dr. Phil ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,829 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
Ok the short story is my motor is out of the car due to lost compression on #3, found loose intake valve seat no damage no injury to lower end. I have been researching head replacement options and rebuild options, but considering rebuilt head could cost close to $1500, and new basic spec heads are close to $2000 or more, although some new castings from AA , Mark Henry and others are doing rebuilds on those , and tis a great option with out breaking the bank, i find myself looking more at the LN RS+, which is the cream of the crop heads for our motors, and i am 90% sure i will be committing to this purchase , i have the opportunity to get set , SO with that said i would be foolish to not consider upgrading the P&C's too.
the LN heads have the larger valves and are ported polished etc , so i think a 2056 is where i want to go because i can do that build by getting new 96's and not have to to into the lower case and change the cam etc. yes i may do that some day but for now i cant afford that, so i am getting these heads and new 96 P&C's that way i can use the d-jet tuned for the 2056 but go with upgraded FI soon as i can afford it. first questions that need to be answered is, 1. do i need to change out my push rods? - this should not change the deck height. I could stay 1911 and just add the heads but while it is hear and new P&C are not that expensive, i am not doing Nikki's cant afford that, but 94 and 96's are same and icould have my cylinders sent to them for hone and bored then coating, or just get new- so what hgave you all done , has anyone done this, leave the stock cam in place and build the 2056 with the new heads and cylinders?/ the also what else do i need? Thanks for the advice Phil - also suggestions on the FI issue as well. what kind of expense am i looking at for a upgraded system? Phil - i have a 123ignition distributor so i can continue to use it or change but it works great alone or with d-jet. |
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cgnj |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 678 Joined: 6-March 03 From: Medford, NJ Member No.: 403 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
What's the lead time for for HAM to deliver a set of 2.0 clone heads? Does he offer a big valve version of this head?
Your going to have to tear down more than you think. Absolute minimum is pull the crank & rods. The rods should be re-bushed. Crank already out, May as well have it checked. It's already open, swap the cam. Why I would spend more of your money. The cost of re-bushing your rods is so close to the price of new H-beam rods, I'd put them in. I bet you save more than 1Kg of rotating mass (free Hp). Put the carb cam in now. you're going to do it anyway. Don't buy used Webers. Empi sells a Drla clone. It's received good reviews on the aircooled forums like Shoptalk. From personal experience, Dell are much easier to tune & are much more streetable. Plus down the road, if a stoker ends up in the picture, Drla 40's can support a 2270. I built my first 2.0 motor in the early 80's from an ad in Porsche Hot VW. I bought the parts with absolutely no engine experience. My friends still talk how much fun that car was to drive. Hope this helps Carlos |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 9th July 2025 - 04:03 PM |
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