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waltonsm |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 93 Joined: 27-June 14 From: United States Member No.: 17,561 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
After seeing some recent posts, I decided it was finally time to thank everybody on this forum for years of encouragement and scope creep on my long term project. As with every real project, this will never be done, and there are certainly many things I would do differently a second time around. But I am 80% of the way there, and I am enjoying driving it as much as I am working on it for the last year or so.
I plan to add more photos of my build process over the next few weeks. You may see some of the advice you gave me realized, and probably some bad or good ideas in metal, fiberglass, and wood. Hopefully I can help someone else out too. -Steve Here are some recent photos: ![]() ![]() ![]() And a few from about 4 years ago: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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mgarrison |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 390 Joined: 14-February 20 From: Chandler, AZ Member No.: 23,922 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
Amazing Suby build! Incredible fab skills... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)
Any additional details & pics you can share on radiator plumbing & pump. Any details on the Tilton pedal cluster install would be appreciated too. I'm early in the process of my Suby conversion. Looking to use a WRX engine & trans as well. |
waltonsm |
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#3
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 93 Joined: 27-June 14 From: United States Member No.: 17,561 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
Amazing Suby build! Incredible fab skills... :worship: Any additional details & pics you can share on radiator plumbing & pump. Any details on the Tilton pedal cluster install would be appreciated too. I'm early in the process of my Suby conversion. Looking to use a WRX engine & trans as well. After deciding to go with a race pedal cluster for tuning and adjustability. After making that decision, I decided the tilton 600 floor mount was the best option for me. I expected to need to repair the floor due to rust, but it ended being only light surface rust. Given that, I needed a way to mount the pedals in the right location, and get the braking pedal force into the floor. Goal was to be able to get the pedals just about as close to the firewall as the OEM config, but also be able to adjust out to dial the position in for the driver. You can see the corrugated floor reinforcement template I made from the initial cotton paper one to represent the thickness of the plate. ![]() ![]() I drilled holes and welded in flange nuts from the back for the pedals to fasten to, coated it in weld thru primer, and stitched it to the floor I made a bolt on close out plate with a gasket and bulkhead tee fitting to go through the existing master cylinder hole to get the brake lines to the front brakes. ![]() ![]() ![]() I made a bracket to fit the short triple reservoir system in order to mount it roughly where the OEM reservoir was. I have the cylinders sized to be stiff but very comfortable to drive on the street. Want to be able to control a 1st gear launch with a slightly stiffer than oem single disc clutch, and also made the brakes stiff enough to prevent me locking them up too easily. It has a balance bar for front/rear bias adjustment and an adjustable proportioning valve. I dialed all of this on the track with the current tires, and then biased it a bit for the street. ![]() ![]() Currently it looks like this with all the lines and sensors attached. ![]() ![]() |
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