2056 build advice requested from those that have been there, June 23 update: original heads rebuilt and will be reinstalled with 96's, will save up for the full upgraded LN Options

[DRPHIL914]

Ok the short story is my motor is out of the car due to lost compression on #3, found loose intake valve seat no damage no injury to lower end. I have been researching head replacement options and rebuild options, but considering rebuilt head could cost close to $1500, and new basic spec heads are close to $2000 or more, although some new castings from AA , Mark Henry and others are doing rebuilds on those , and tis a great option with out breaking the bank, i find myself looking more at the LN RS+, which is the cream of the crop heads for our motors, and i am 90% sure i will be committing to this purchase , i have the opportunity to get set , SO with that said i would be foolish to not consider upgrading the P&C's too.

the LN heads have the larger valves and are ported polished etc , so i think a 2056 is where i want to go because i can do that build by getting new 96's and not have to to into the lower case and change the cam etc. yes i may do that some day but for now i cant afford that, so i am getting these heads and new 96 P&C's
that way i can use the d-jet tuned for the 2056 but go with upgraded FI soon as i can afford it.
first questions that need to be answered is,
1. do i need to change out my push rods? - this should not change the deck height. I could stay 1911 and just add the heads but while it is hear and new P&C are not that expensive, i am not doing Nikki's cant afford that, but 94 and 96's are same and icould have my cylinders sent to them for hone and bored then coating, or just get new-
so what hgave you all done , has anyone done this, leave the stock cam in place and build the 2056 with the new heads and cylinders?/

the also what else do i need?

Thanks for the advice

Phil
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also suggestions on the FI issue as well. what kind of expense am i looking at for a upgraded system?

Phil
- i have a 123ignition distributor so i can continue to use it or change but it works great alone or with d-jet.

[Bleyseng]

Don't use gaskets between the heads and cylinders per the VW bulletin. Shim underneath the cylinders to get the right Deck Height.

[Mark Henry]

Don't use gaskets between the heads and cylinders per the VW bulletin. Shim underneath the cylinders to get the right Deck Height.

Do the math!
CB performance and others have an engine calculator.

[DRPHIL914]

Don't use gaskets between the heads and cylinders per the VW bulletin. Shim underneath the cylinders to get the right Deck Height.

Do the math!
CB performance and others have an engine calculator.

i saw that posted somewhere and read about doing that , if needed, under the cylinder not between the cylinder and head- these heads did have shim between cylinder and head and i didn’t measure them as they were stuck on the heads, and i don’t think they eagle machine did either, but they are gone now, he said the heads are clean, good shape, didn’t need to be fly cut- so does that mean clean ans level surface ? when you say measure o assume you mean deck height, and checking for clearance - so once heads are back, mount them up and make sure valves are not interfering with piston when at TDC.
if i had the known thickness of those gaskets i’d have a better idea about what we need to be replacing. wonder what the history is ans why they did that years ago. car only ha 60k miles on it now, about 38k or so when i bought it 12 years ago and previous records which there is a stack of don’t show any motor work, but there is about a 20 year span of almost nothing.
so could be someone at some time did an upper end refresh? did they use gaskets there when new bacon in 1975 ? did that bulletin came out much later ?