2056 build advice requested from those that have been there, June 23 update: original heads rebuilt and will be reinstalled with 96's, will save up for the full upgraded LN Options

[DRPHIL914]

Ok the short story is my motor is out of the car due to lost compression on #3, found loose intake valve seat no damage no injury to lower end. I have been researching head replacement options and rebuild options, but considering rebuilt head could cost close to $1500, and new basic spec heads are close to $2000 or more, although some new castings from AA , Mark Henry and others are doing rebuilds on those , and tis a great option with out breaking the bank, i find myself looking more at the LN RS+, which is the cream of the crop heads for our motors, and i am 90% sure i will be committing to this purchase , i have the opportunity to get set , SO with that said i would be foolish to not consider upgrading the P&C's too.

the LN heads have the larger valves and are ported polished etc , so i think a 2056 is where i want to go because i can do that build by getting new 96's and not have to to into the lower case and change the cam etc. yes i may do that some day but for now i cant afford that, so i am getting these heads and new 96 P&C's
that way i can use the d-jet tuned for the 2056 but go with upgraded FI soon as i can afford it.
first questions that need to be answered is,
1. do i need to change out my push rods? - this should not change the deck height. I could stay 1911 and just add the heads but while it is hear and new P&C are not that expensive, i am not doing Nikki's cant afford that, but 94 and 96's are same and icould have my cylinders sent to them for hone and bored then coating, or just get new-
so what hgave you all done , has anyone done this, leave the stock cam in place and build the 2056 with the new heads and cylinders?/

the also what else do i need?

Thanks for the advice

Phil
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also suggestions on the FI issue as well. what kind of expense am i looking at for a upgraded system?

Phil
- i have a 123ignition distributor so i can continue to use it or change but it works great alone or with d-jet.

[Mark Henry]

You have to measure head cc, if HAM heads cc is stamped on the head. You have to buy or make a plate and use a syringe to measure the head cc. Measure deck height and then plug all your numbers into the engine calculator.
Shims come in .010" increments, play with the calculator till you find your CR and shims size.

Many threads on how to do this.

[DRPHIL914]

You have to measure head cc, if HAM heads cc is stamped on the head. You have to buy or make a plate and use a syringe to measure the head cc. Measure deck height and then plug all your numbers into the engine calculator.
Shims come in .010" increments, play with the calculator till you find your CR and shims size.

Many threads on how to do this.

roger that. will do some research on this, and once i get my heads back from the shop, will go to work on getting these measurements done and figure out how much gasket is necessary.
so- no gaskets at head, measure, figure deck height CC etc, get gasket if needed, for placement at base of cylinders, etc etc.

thanks for the advice etc, kind of helped me from doing things here that are not needed unless i do a full rebuild, which will happen at some point, but right now, just getting this running and back on the road, shouldnt be too hard of a task.
its giving me a chance since the motor is out, to address the leak at the oil pump seal and the push rod tubes. moving on...... - original heads rebuilt, but i will be looking close at which rebuild i would like to do going forward.
Phil