6-cyl folks - oil line check valve |
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6-cyl folks - oil line check valve |
Optimusglen |
Jul 24 2021, 09:16 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 912 Joined: 26-February 16 From: Minneapolis Member No.: 19,709 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I'm in the process of installing my 6 and have come to the oil lines. My entire setup is planned as AN-12, and I see options for AN12 one-way check valves from a number of retailers.
One example: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/150024/1000...KEaAnyVEALw_wcB I have seen the threads on here and on Pelican about the Rothsport valve, but the price and the lack of AN fittings have drawn me away from it. Is there some other reason that someone should fork out 300 for the Rothsport unit? |
9146C |
Jul 26 2021, 12:05 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 228 Joined: 14-September 19 From: US Member No.: 23,460 Region Association: None |
When I was completing my "rustoration" project and re-installing my 2.7L, I was debating installing one of these (Rothsport) check valves.
My motor had less than 10,000 miles when it was re-installed in my finished project. I had only ever had one instance of "smoke" (no external oil leaks) in the time I've had the motor installed (prior to rebuilding my car) and opted not to proceed with the check valve. I have not had any issues in the last 3-4 months that I've again begun driving the car. When I was researching the Rothsport valve, I recall reading a comment somewhere that it is better to have a "prime" on the pump when the motor is started from cold...sounds logical...is it true? Who knows? The argument went further to say that a check valve would (or could) prevent the pump from having this initial prime, and may, in theory prolong low/no oil pressure immediately following engine start-up. Again, it is likely a theory with little or no merit. I did not find any data to support the claim either way. In my simple way of thinking, an oil accumulation in the engine case (during shutdown, prolonged non-use) is the result of the (excessive) clearance of the oil pump bleeding through. Yes, oil viscosity, ambient temperatures, etc all play a factor. In my case, my oil pump was brand new when I rebuilt the motor so I don't expect to have any issues (with start-up blue) for a long time to come. That sentence is not meant to say/imply that a used pump cannot be rebuilt to factory tolerances. I may be way off base with my assumptions and observations, but, I'm in the camp of others here with try it if you need it. IMHO, the check valve is merely a "band-aid" for an oil pump that is (beginning) showing signs of wear. |
fixer34 |
Jul 26 2021, 04:52 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,087 Joined: 16-September 14 From: Chicago area Member No.: 17,908 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
When I was completing my "rustoration" project and re-installing my 2.7L, I was debating installing one of these (Rothsport) check valves. My motor had less than 10,000 miles when it was re-installed in my finished project. I had only ever had one instance of "smoke" (no external oil leaks) in the time I've had the motor installed (prior to rebuilding my car) and opted not to proceed with the check valve. I have not had any issues in the last 3-4 months that I've again begun driving the car. When I was researching the Rothsport valve, I recall reading a comment somewhere that it is better to have a "prime" on the pump when the motor is started from cold...sounds logical...is it true? Who knows? The argument went further to say that a check valve would (or could) prevent the pump from having this initial prime, and may, in theory prolong low/no oil pressure immediately following engine start-up. Again, it is likely a theory with little or no merit. I did not find any data to support the claim either way. In my simple way of thinking, an oil accumulation in the engine case (during shutdown, prolonged non-use) is the result of the (excessive) clearance of the oil pump bleeding through. Yes, oil viscosity, ambient temperatures, etc all play a factor. In my case, my oil pump was brand new when I rebuilt the motor so I don't expect to have any issues (with start-up blue) for a long time to come. That sentence is not meant to say/imply that a used pump cannot be rebuilt to factory tolerances. I may be way off base with my assumptions and observations, but, I'm in the camp of others here with try it if you need it. IMHO, the check valve is merely a "band-aid" for an oil pump that is (beginning) showing signs of wear. I'm guessing I have plenty of clearances; 120k on the motor and as far as I know the case has never been split. Car sits a good part of the time, especially winter months. Got tired of cleaning up the leaking oil. My choice was a Rothsport valve, some new hose,(about $400 total) and vexatious work over a couple months time. OR a complete engine rebuild to the tune of $15k+ and about a year of waiting. Spun the engine for a few minutes with coil disconnected, started to build a little pressure. reconnected, started it up and pressure went to 50psi right away. I keep an eye on the gauge while driving (have a small aftermarket one) and it's been fine so far. And no oil leaks to speak of. |
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