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> Clutch replace advise, Trying to do this without over doing
rob gannon
post Nov 9 2021, 11:00 AM
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Hello, we have a 1970-4, the clutch is slipping so I know it’s time to replace. I’ve read Pelican’s write up on replacing and also Ian Karr’s YouTube video which was super helpful.
The Pelican write up was super intimidating but the video makes it look a lot more doable. It looks like a big job but I think I can handle it, I am pretty intimidated though. So here’s my questions-

Can I just replace the clutch disc without the flywheel and all associated parts? Adding up all the parts with flywheel replacement is much more expensive than just the clutch disc.

I know replacing everything as shown in Ian’s video is the best thing I can do but another part of the procedure that scares me is I don’t have the gauges to measure the runout when replacing the flywheel.

Also looking for advice on whether I can just pull the tranny vs pulling the whole engine for this job if I’m just replacing clutch?
Thanks, Rob
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rhodyguy
post Nov 9 2021, 11:35 AM
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While you're in there, replace the TOB, the 2 plastic pieces that retain the TOB, the small cup bushing, the pivot retaining clip....there's always more. Always.

There are critical demensions on the flywheel that might render your current FW useless after the machine work.

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GregAmy
post Nov 9 2021, 01:32 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Nov 9 2021, 01:35 PM) *

While you're in there, replace the TOB, the 2 plastic pieces that retain the TOB, the small cup bushing, the pivot retaining clip...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

If I'm going to all that trouble to either pull the drivetrain or just the transaxle, I'm going to plan on replacing at least the disc, pressure plate, the crankshaft seal, the flywheel or-ing, felt seal, and pilot bearing, the flywheel washer/plate behind the bolts, the throwout bearing and its plastic inserts, and the TOB lever plastic cup. And loctite for the flywheel and pressure plate.

And then I'd coordinate with a local machine shop to bring the flywheel to them after removal for inspection and at least facing, and I'd be prepared to buy a flywheel if necessary.

This is one of those jobs that if you try to do it short to save money, it may likely bite you in the ass in the long run and cost you more later (plus you'll have to do the job again.) You can get away with just replacing the disc, but only if you understand that it's likely a temporary measure "for now"...or if you're about to flip it to someone else (which, honestly, isn't really cool).

Do it once, and do it right.
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