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> Clutch replace advise, Trying to do this without over doing
rob gannon
post Nov 9 2021, 11:00 AM
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Hello, we have a 1970-4, the clutch is slipping so I know it’s time to replace. I’ve read Pelican’s write up on replacing and also Ian Karr’s YouTube video which was super helpful.
The Pelican write up was super intimidating but the video makes it look a lot more doable. It looks like a big job but I think I can handle it, I am pretty intimidated though. So here’s my questions-

Can I just replace the clutch disc without the flywheel and all associated parts? Adding up all the parts with flywheel replacement is much more expensive than just the clutch disc.

I know replacing everything as shown in Ian’s video is the best thing I can do but another part of the procedure that scares me is I don’t have the gauges to measure the runout when replacing the flywheel.

Also looking for advice on whether I can just pull the tranny vs pulling the whole engine for this job if I’m just replacing clutch?
Thanks, Rob
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wonkipop
post Nov 10 2021, 01:43 AM
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you definitely don't have to pull the engine to do the clutch or the flywheel.
drop the trans as per detailed instructions above.
i have a 4.
i had to take the muffler off to back the trans out but not the heat exchangers.
since i dropped the driveshafts, i did the cv joints as well. why not.
renewed all the gear linkage bushings as well.
as nihil44 says, yeah don't forget the strap. its hiding up there.

as mentioned the critical dimensions come into play with that flywheel.
you don't have a lot of machining room to move before you hit the top of the flywheel bolts. i seem to remember its pretty skinny really. for some reason. like maybe 914 flywheels are somehow not as thick as other type 4 flywheels but the bolts are the same?

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