Fuel tank cleaning/sealing, Any tips? Options

[robkammer]

While I'm replacing the fuel lines on the 74 I thought I'd address the inside of the tank while I have it out. It's rusty but not too awful. The screen was pretty dirty though.
I'm leaning towards the POR15 system but have a few questions.
What's the best way to seal the tank while I'm stirring all of the solutions around inside? It's looking like a pretty good upper body workout and I would hate to interrupt the fun with leaking solvent.
Open for suggestions of other products.
Cheers!

[robkammer]

That's what I'm hearing about the POR. I'll need not to hurry the process and be sure everything is really dry. My other option is to have a radiator shop clean it out and find something to coat the inside. Forget the 'real gas' option. There are only a few stations in my area and they're not convenient. I've had good results with fresh fuel and additives with all of my cars and boats.
I also need to weigh the cost, $110 for the POR or $249 for a repro tank from 914R.
Thanks for the input!

[Mark Henry]

Forget the 'real gas' option. There are only a few stations in my area and they're not convenient. I've had good results with fresh fuel and additives with all of my cars and boats.
I also need to weigh the cost, $110 for the POR or $249 for a repro tank from 914R.
Thanks for the input!

If you have FI with new FI rated hose and proper FI clamps you should have no problem running e10, but when it comes to the year end I'd still go out of my way to get a tank of real gas. The problem with e10 is besides eating old hose it starts to go sour very quickly and if you have moisture in the tank it will migrate to the bottom of the tank. I've never been one that uses additives, IMHO they're all snake oil, most, if not all, retard the octane and slow the burn flame front, exactly what you don't want. You don't need a new tank.