While I'm replacing the fuel lines on the 74 I thought I'd address the inside of the tank while I have it out. It's rusty but not too awful. The screen was pretty dirty though.
I'm leaning towards the POR15 system but have a few questions.
What's the best way to seal the tank while I'm stirring all of the solutions around inside? It's looking like a pretty good upper body workout and I would hate to interrupt the fun with leaking solvent.
Open for suggestions of other products.
Cheers!Click to view attachment

Keep your tank full of real gas. For winter storage fill it, add sta-bil and run it till it's through the system. If you can't get real gas locally I'd try to get enough (two 5 gallan cans) for winter storage, drain the old gas and then add the real gas.

I've never seen a liner product that I would put in my tank. I've actually had to replace a tank in a bug due to liner failure, pretty sure it was POR15 the chap used.

Cleaning -- Yes.

Sealing -- No. I wouldn't seal a tank. It leaks or it doesn't. If it leaks, new tank or fix the leak by welding in new metal. Dangerous, Ya . . . Ya. If you don't know how to weld a gas tank safely, find someone that does.

For cleaning I've used POR Degreaser and Metal Prep with great results. Follow directions Exactly.

Yes, exactly. I think POR 15 can work well as long as you take the time to do it exactly the way they instruct. I did two tanks with their system. The first one worked out very well. I think I rushed the second one (had to get to one of my kid's sporting events or something) and it didn't turn out nearly as well.

That is a really clean tank. I would not POR it. Roll with it.

Kevin has a good point. Yours looks good. By comparison here's what mine looked like before treatment (after sitting for like 10 years):

Click to view attachment

That's what I'm hearing about the POR. I'll need not to hurry the process and be sure everything is really dry. My other option is to have a radiator shop clean it out and find something to coat the inside. Forget the 'real gas' option. There are only a few stations in my area and they're not convenient. I've had good results with fresh fuel and additives with all of my cars and boats.
I also need to weigh the cost, $110 for the POR or $249 for a repro tank from 914R.
Thanks for the input!

The radiator shop (in Tucson) that did my tank STRONGLY recommended against any internal sealant.

Your tank looks about as clean as they get. Add fuel and enjoy.

john

Still not sure why you're wanting to coat the inside. Tank sealer rarely works. Begins to flake off later on and clogs up the in tank fuel sock. Then you're screwed!

Light surface rust is to be expected. As previously stated your tank doesn't look too bad.

Clean and treat with POR Metal prep. POR metal prep etches the steel and leaves a light zinc coating that will help prevent future surface rust. As always . . . best way to prevent corrosion is to keep the tank full.

Not sure where you're getting $110 for POR. Heres a gallon of cleaner/degreaser and a gallon of metal prep (more than enough) for $63.

https://detailingconnect.com/products/por-1...BSABEgJsOfD_BwE

Thanks everyone. I'm near an Eastwood store and that's what they sell the POR kit for. But with all the input and more thinking I'm leaning more to a good cleaning and keeping the fuel fresh. Will go either with the POR cleaner or a local radiator/tank shop.
No hurry, the roads are salty here for another 2 months

If you have FI with new FI rated hose and proper FI clamps you should have no problem running e10, but when it comes to the year end I'd still go out of my way to get a tank of real gas. The problem with e10 is besides eating old hose it starts to go sour very quickly and if you have moisture in the tank it will migrate to the bottom of the tank. I've never been one that uses additives, IMHO they're all snake oil, most, if not all, retard the octane and slow the burn flame front, exactly what you don't want. You don't need a new tank.

Whatever you do do not send it to Myers in Ohio or western PA.