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vitamin914 |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: 8-September 21 From: Toronto Canada Member No.: 25,893 Region Association: Canada ![]() ![]() |
I have mostly used soldering stations (Metcal and Hakko) that have adjustable temperature controls. Great for benchwork, not so much when you are upside down under the dash.
Weller, Milwaukee, Hakko make some battery powered units and Ive seen some no name butane powered irons. None seem to have much in the way of good temperature control. Twenty years ago I had a butane micro torch / soldiering iron - didn't like it at all. The solder would oxidize in seconds (dross up) and I was forever trying to keeping it clean no matter how low I kept the flame. Put it down the wrong way and the exhaust port would burn the table. I did like the micro torch tip for shrinking heat shrink tubing but that was about it. Anyone have experiences with newer cordless soldering irons - battery or butane? |
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76-914 |
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 13,717 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
Add to the solder failure topic: Yes, some idiots use acid based flux as opposed to resin flux but just as important most people do not know what a properly soldered joint looks like nor the correct method of soldering. In all of the articles I've read here, only once have I seen a wetted sponge/cloth next to the soldering iron or a wire clamping device being employed. Both sides here have presented good arguments to support their case but I've got to stick with what I've known to work for me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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