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sjhenry1075 |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 269 Joined: 22-July 12 From: Stevensville, MD Member No.: 14,709 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
Hey everyone,
I'm in the process of sourcing parts for my 2056 build. I was able to find 2.0 heads that will be rebuilt by a local machine shop, and I found a set of very nice 40 IDF Weber carbs. I'll also be using my 1.7 case. My question is this: for the engine internals, where can I find these parts? I did see on the Fat Rimco website that they sell a short block kit for $2650 that includes the following: FAT Camshaft FC 442 Camshaft / FC 440 If Smog 71mm Type 4 Crankshaft 2.0 Connecting Rods - Rebuilt 96mm Forged Pistons & Cylinders - Keith Black WEB Lifters Front Oil Seal Rear Main Seal Gasket Set - German Engine Hardware Kit - Nuts & Bolts Main Bearings - Silverline Rod Bearings - Mahle HD Double Thrust Cam Bearings (2 Sets of STD) What does everyone think about the price? I know some would not refer Fat Rimco for an engine build, but they will just supply the parts, not doing the actual build. Thoughts? |
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BeatNavy |
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#2
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Certified Professional Scapegoat ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,951 Joined: 26-February 14 From: Easton, MD Member No.: 17,042 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
There's a ton of people here who can wax more eloquently than I can in terms of the tradeoffs, but in general:
Yeah, higher CR's produce more heat, require higher octane fuel, generally give you less "room for error" in the build, and may be less forgiving overall. If you're building this yourself, it's probably smart to err on the side of conservative (e.g., no more than 8.5-ish). I point this out because I didn't really have this all mapped out when I purchased my first set of pistons (valve relief), and after I "stumbled" into my plan later I ended up having to buy a second set of pistons (KB flat top). Once the machine shop is done with your heads they should be able to tell you the combustion chamber volume, and then you'll really be able to determine how best to get to your target CR. Carbs give you more flexibility in terms of cam selection, but again, more aggressive on the performance side involves tradeoffs on things like idle stability, mileage, etc. All that said you can definitely get more zip without sacrificing reliability or making it a difficult build. |
sjhenry1075 |
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#3
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 269 Joined: 22-July 12 From: Stevensville, MD Member No.: 14,709 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
There's a ton of people here who can wax more eloquently than I can in terms of the tradeoffs, but in general: Yeah, higher CR's produce more heat, require higher octane fuel, generally give you less "room for error" in the build, and may be less forgiving overall. If you're building this yourself, it's probably smart to err on the side of conservative (e.g., no more than 8.5-ish). I point this out because I didn't really have this all mapped out when I purchased my first set of pistons (valve relief), and after I "stumbled" into my plan later I ended up having to buy a second set of pistons (KB flat top). Once the machine shop is done with your heads they should be able to tell you the combustion chamber volume, and then you'll really be able to determine how best to get to your target CR. Carbs give you more flexibility in terms of cam selection, but again, more aggressive on the performance side involves tradeoffs on things like idle stability, mileage, etc. All that said you can definitely get more zip without sacrificing reliability or making it a difficult build. Don't you have a 2056? What cam did you use? If I understand this correctly, most of the power comes from the heads/cam/exhaust which all have to be tuned to work together, correct? |
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