Parts for 2056, Where to source parts Options

[sjhenry1075]

Hey everyone,

I'm in the process of sourcing parts for my 2056 build. I was able to find 2.0 heads that will be rebuilt by a local machine shop, and I found a set of very nice 40 IDF Weber carbs. I'll also be using my 1.7 case.

My question is this: for the engine internals, where can I find these parts? I did see on the Fat Rimco website that they sell a short block kit for $2650 that includes the following:
FAT Camshaft FC 442 Camshaft / FC 440 If Smog
71mm Type 4 Crankshaft
2.0 Connecting Rods - Rebuilt
96mm Forged Pistons & Cylinders - Keith Black
WEB Lifters
Front Oil Seal
Rear Main Seal
Gasket Set - German
Engine Hardware Kit - Nuts & Bolts
Main Bearings - Silverline
Rod Bearings - Mahle
HD Double Thrust Cam Bearings (2 Sets of STD)

What does everyone think about the price? I know some would not refer Fat Rimco for an engine build, but they will just supply the parts, not doing the actual build.

Thoughts?

[BeatNavy]

There's a ton of people here who can wax more eloquently than I can in terms of the tradeoffs, but in general:

Yeah, higher CR's produce more heat, require higher octane fuel, generally give you less "room for error" in the build, and may be less forgiving overall. If you're building this yourself, it's probably smart to err on the side of conservative (e.g., no more than 8.5-ish).

I point this out because I didn't really have this all mapped out when I purchased my first set of pistons (valve relief), and after I "stumbled" into my plan later I ended up having to buy a second set of pistons (KB flat top). Once the machine shop is done with your heads they should be able to tell you the combustion chamber volume, and then you'll really be able to determine how best to get to your target CR.

Carbs give you more flexibility in terms of cam selection, but again, more aggressive on the performance side involves tradeoffs on things like idle stability, mileage, etc.

All that said you can definitely get more zip without sacrificing reliability or making it a difficult build.

[sjhenry1075]

There's a ton of people here who can wax more eloquently than I can in terms of the tradeoffs, but in general:

Yeah, higher CR's produce more heat, require higher octane fuel, generally give you less "room for error" in the build, and may be less forgiving overall. If you're building this yourself, it's probably smart to err on the side of conservative (e.g., no more than 8.5-ish).

I point this out because I didn't really have this all mapped out when I purchased my first set of pistons (valve relief), and after I "stumbled" into my plan later I ended up having to buy a second set of pistons (KB flat top). Once the machine shop is done with your heads they should be able to tell you the combustion chamber volume, and then you'll really be able to determine how best to get to your target CR.

Carbs give you more flexibility in terms of cam selection, but again, more aggressive on the performance side involves tradeoffs on things like idle stability, mileage, etc.

All that said you can definitely get more zip without sacrificing reliability or making it a difficult build.

Don't you have a 2056? What cam did you use? If I understand this correctly, most of the power comes from the heads/cam/exhaust which all have to be tuned to work together, correct?

[VaccaRabite]

Don't you have a 2056? What cam did you use? If I understand this correctly, most of the power comes from the heads/cam/exhaust which all have to be tuned to work together, correct?

Well, yes and no.

If you have a big cam they wants compression then you are going to need headers, and it’s going to want to live at the upper end of the Rev range.

But there are lots of cam out there. I happen to like the web 494 which gives a flat torque curve, is fine with about 8.6:1 compression (though it was also fine with 9.2:1 compression)

Compression makes power, and also makes heat. On my current 2056 I dialed back the compression in favor of less heat. It’s still a fantastic engine that I’m about to go drive over 100 miles away from home for the weekend.

Though they tend to be more expensive, I like the LN Engineering cam kits, and have one in my car (don’t recall the designation, but it’s similar to the 494 but with more exhaust duration).

Zach

[sjhenry1075]

Don't you have a 2056? What cam did you use? If I understand this correctly, most of the power comes from the heads/cam/exhaust which all have to be tuned to work together, correct?

Well, yes and no.

If you have a big cam they wants compression then you are going to need headers, and it’s going to want to live at the upper end of the Rev range.

But there are lots of cam out there. I happen to like the web 494 which gives a flat torque curve, is fine with about 8.6:1 compression (though it was also fine with 9.2:1 compression)

Compression makes power, and also makes heat. On my current 2056 I dialed back the compression in favor of less heat. It’s still a fantastic engine that I’m about to go drive over 100 miles away from home for the weekend.

Though they tend to be more expensive, I like the LN Engineering cam kits, and have one in my car (don’t recall the designation, but it’s similar to the 494 but with more exhaust duration).

Zach

I think I'm going to go with Raby's 9590 and get the delux kit that comes with the chrome moly pushrods.